The crux of this crack is low to the ground and is passed quickly- if you can protect overhead, this makes it a reasonable lead to push your grade on.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, The center of these starts with a slightly overhanging odd jam and proceeds upwards to easier territory. The climb protects from the ground and then again at the crux to make the leader pretty safe. Climb up on awkward moves (5.9 crux) to reach a lower angle jam crack above (5.6?) and proceed to the top.
The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.
Protection
Standard J-tree rack- a few stoppers, a few cams to hand/fist sized.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.
I'd agree that this route is definitely NOT worth doing, but I can say that I have, sadly enough. It's one of those routes that needs a 1/2 star rating because calling it a bomb is just not nice. LOL
Maybe a boulder problem, maybe a short route, doesn't really matter but it doesn't completely suck, it's fun enough. Not a main attraction or anything however.
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal May 18, 2005 rating: 5.9-
A very good climb for new climbers to learn some jamming technique.
Hmm, I don't get all the negative reactions. I actually like this thing, because it makes a very good solo....crux low, no endurance factor, secure climbing, good variety from fingers to chimney to fist and OW with some helper face holds, easy walk off, and two more fun lines on either side of it. It would be on the short side to bother with rope/gear on, but add this one to your solo circuit.
I'm giving it three stars to balance out some of these ridiculous bomb ratings. The rock is clean and solid, the climbing varied and fun. It could be longer but so could alot of 4 star Josh routes (Heart of Darkness comes to mind). Bomb? No way.
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