This is the hardest 5.10 I have done at J-tree. I fell on it twice on lead (micronuts and the smallest lowe-ball.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, THe left-most of these starts with a double-overhanging open book. The thin seam protects fromt he ground with a few tiny nuts, and then again from a finger-burning stance if you have the power for it (tiny lowe-ball, & more brass). There is no shortage of pro opportunity here, and it should be taken prior to firing off the route if you have any doubts about onsigting 5.10+.
Climb up on key smears (on the 2 overhanging walls of the open book) to better holds above (5.9 moves) to reach a wide, but easy crack above (5.5?) and proceed to the top.
This route is short but physically and mentally challening. I took my first ever J-tree lead falls on it.
Protection
The crux is low, but high enough to really twist your ankles or smack into your belayer and get dropped, perhaps with feet 6' off the ground and in a contorted body position. Gear is difficult to place. The gear at the crux for me consisted of a few small brass nuts and a tiny lowe-ball. Yes, it held 2 falls. After the crux the climbing is still a little strenous to place gear from for a few moves, and a fall is ill-advised. Use short slings to avoid ground-potential.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.
More of a boulder problem to an easy solo to exit than a route. The hard bit is getting up the first 10 ft. A thin layback in a corner, leads to a larger crack. People tell me a hold has broken and that it is harder then 5.10 now, this made me feel much better about how hard it felt to do.
I agree with Mike as far as the boulder problem to easy solo. Seems like it would be much harder and heavier to place and lug pro. Stemming was the key for me.
Peyote Cracks
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