Stephen Quale pulling the crux on Jumping Jack Cra...
Description
A good excercise in thin hands jamming (even if the crux is short). Start about 65 feet left of Sidewinder and climb the obvious chimney (5.9) to where it ends at a small roof, with a thin crack above. This chimney is unprotected unless you bring a large 4-5 inch cam. At the roof, there is good pro.
Place a piece or two above the roof, then use bad jams, stems and body english to work your way up until you can get a thin hands jam and bring your feet up over the lip of the roof. Once you've established yourself in the crack above, the difficulties ease.
Descend off back of the crag (downclimb a crack or jump 12+ feet down); or jump to top of pinnacle to left and rappel off.
Protection
0.5 to 2.5 inches protect upper crack fine; Bring a 4 inch piece if you need pro for the chimney.
Went to do Sidewinder. people on it. I had #6 cam with me. So I led Jumping Jack. The chimney is 5.9 I protected it with 4.5 Cam and a #6 Cam so I felt safe. The crux was coming out from the roof into the thin finger crack. I went to pull the roof, very awkward. Then fell. Good gear #3 orange metolius cam. Gave another go then pulled the move Very tough climb. i felt like I was going to puke when I got to the top. Done it recently and still fell going over the roof. I'll get this climb clean one day!
ive always liked this route. The chimney would be bold with no pro. the jams are actually pretty good, crux is getting your feet over the roof. Classic JT 11a
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