BETA PHOTO: "A Woman's Work Is Never Done". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This route starts on the west face of Labor Dome, just left of center. The route climbs a short left-facing crack/corner to reach a small roof, where it traverses right (still easy) to reach a thinning crack that climbs upward and curves slightly right at the top. Climb that crack, placing gear while you can. Put your small pieces up as high and as possible and then crank the crux sequence (a tiny cam might be as high as your waist). It's good to have a few pieces, since small cams are known to pull from desert granite. Finish on the easier slab and belay in a rounded ledge below the roof.
To descend, walk/scramble to climber's right (south) as described in the "rock" page.
Protection
A set of nuts and cams from hand-sized to as small as possible (the smaller they are, the closer they will be when you pull the crux.)
Add CommentComments on A Woman's Work Is Never Done
I do not recall a roof nor a left facing crack. The crack is right facing. Then the crack ends and you have a left facing edge to work with. I used a #1 Metolious cam and went for the crux. You have to shift your weight from lybacking right to lybacking left as you smear your feet on the not-so-featured-wall. After the crux, there is no pro until you get to a ledge but the climbing is easy. Faces west so it gets plenty of sun.
Correction to my previous post. Once the crack ends all you have is the right facing edge to work with. So, you have to shift from lybacking right on the crack to lybacking left off the right facing edge.
By Chris Miller Administrator Dec 10, 2003 rating: 5.10c
This is a fun little route with really nice rock and some cool moves at the crux. Two stars out of five (more stars if the route was longer).
Just did this again last weekend (last time was in 1980). Would be 4 or 5 star route is it were 5 or 6 times longer, but it isn't. So only 2 of 5. The rock is simply superb, perfect crack, just very short with only a 8 foot section of hard climbing.
I agree with Randy that if the climb was longer it would be worthy of more stars. I would also rate this a 10a, the crux move was short and not worthy of a "C". Excellant rock, great protection, just wish it had been a longer climb!
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Feb 18, 2007 rating: 5.10c
10a? Are you guys nuts? The route starts out with easy .8 type climbing using featured rock and hand crack. Then the business starts as the hand crack chokes down and is very small. Too small for my ladies hands! I did not lead this route so I worked on the sequence at the crux 3 different ways. Straight in, straight in to layback and layback only. The crux section is difficult to piece together and would certainly have you on your toes with the small pro you have to place up high from your last good stance.
It only takes one 10c move to secure the grade. You want to downgrade something....go across the way and try the Bruiser. Now that route should be rated 10a.
I worked the route as if I would lead it sometime in the future. What did I discover? I'm better off as the second.
~Susan
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 18, 2007 rating: 5.11-
Great line.... good rock.... nearly impossible! I found this 3 move wonder to be pretty insecure and hard for the grade.... 10A???? More like 11a for me. I would say the actual little crux is harder than comparable cruxes on Clean and Jerk, The Bruiser, Illusion Dweller, Quantum Jump, and many more. Survey says, sandbag. Set an anchor at the top in a horizontal with cams from 1.5" to 3". Downclimb off to the south.
Labor Dome
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