A Woman's Work is Never Done 

I do not recall a roof nor a left facing crack. The crack is right facing. Then the crack ends and you have a left facing edge to work with. I used a #1 Metolious cam and went for the crux. You have to shift your weight from lybacking right to lybacking left as you smear your feet on the not-so-featured-wall. After the crux, there is no pro until you get to a ledge but the climbing is easy. Faces west so it gets plenty of sun.

Great quality, radical J Tree funk moves.

A bit soft for J Tree but reasonable

Correction to my previous post. Once the crack ends all you have is the right facing edge to work with. So, you have to shift from lybacking right on the crack to lybacking left off the right facing edge.

This short but fun route offers some cool moves on nice rock with a balancy and somewhat improbable crux. Two stars out of five (more stars if the route was longer).

I thought this was a very nice, unique route played out on pretty good quality rock. 3 stars of 5 and very recommendable...

Just did this again last weekend (last time was in 1980). Would be 4 or 5 star route is it were 5 or 6 times longer, but it isn't. So only 2 of 5. The rock is simply superb, perfect crack, just very short with only a 8 foot section of hard climbing.

I agree with Randy that if the climb was longer it would be worthy of more stars. I would also rate this a 10a, the crux move was short and not worthy of a "C". Excellant rock, great protection, just wish it had been a longer climb!

10a? Are you guys nuts? The route starts out with easy .8 type climbing using featured rock and hand crack. Then the business starts as the hand crack chokes down and is very small. Too small for my ladies hands! I did not lead this route so I worked on the sequence at the crux 3 different ways. Straight in, straight in to layback and layback only. The crux section is difficult to piece together and would certainly have you on your toes with the small pro you have to place up high from your last good stance.

It only takes one 10c move to secure the grade. You want to downgrade something....go across the way and try the Bruiser. Now that route should be rated 10a.

I worked the route as if I would lead it sometime in the future. What did I discover? I'm better off as the second.

~Susan

Great line.... good rock.... nearly impossible! I found this 3 move wonder to be pretty insecure and hard for the grade.... 10A???? More like 11a for me. I would say the actual little crux is harder than comparable cruxes on Clean and Jerk, The Bruiser, Illusion Dweller, Quantum Jump, and many more. Survey says, sandbag. Set an anchor at the top in a horizontal with cams from 1.5" to 3". Downclimb off to the south.

I'm with Sue and Russ on the grade. No way 10a. I did this thing about 20 years ago and was surprised by how tricky and balancy it was. Went back and did it again yesterday right after doing Decompensator of Lhasa which was easier. No falls but a couple of dicey moments. I'll vote 3 out of 5 even though it is short, just because it is cool. I mean, some folks are sayin' Heart Of Darkness is a top 5 JT route, and it is also short, and for my hand size much easier and less interesting than A Womans Work...

Kris, I just can't comprehend how you could compare this to Decompensator of Lhasa. Short, near-perfect finger crack with one layback move onto an easy face vs. extended head-down ass-out climbing on friction and nearly non-existent hold remnants.

A somewhat nebulis crux after an all too short splitter. That one difficult move sometimes feels much harder than 10C to me...