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Jedi Master 

5.12 R

   

FA: Alan Nelson 1982.
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Views: 78 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 4, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: "Jedi Master".
Photo by Blitzo.



Description 

This climbs a left Leaning crack that starts above the ground.


Protection 

Best to top rope.



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Oct 4, 2007

Actually it's fine to lead as the crux is a boulder problem start over flat dirt - a crash pad might be handy if you pop before the crack. Incidentally the start has gotten harder since the FA because of the eroding ground at the base.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Oct 4, 2007

Your description: "This climbs a left Leaning crack that starts above the ground." is severly lacking and in fact is totally worthless since that much can be learned from just looking at the photo you posted.

By Obi
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 5, 2007

I agree with Chris - the grade should be given only for the first few moves off the deck if doing the direct start.

The alternative is to approach the crack by traversing from the right, by the base of Hans Solo. A few unprotected slab moves gains entry into the crack.

Although the moves aren't necessarily super hard, the blind tricky gear placements adds a lot of "spice" to this climb (if approached from the right, but probably true for the direct start).

By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.10+ PG13

The route is now eroded enough at the base to require a moderate sized cheat stone to maintain a 5.10c rating. I don't think it would even be possible to start the route without it. As Obi mentions, traversing in from the right is easier and makes the route 5.9 or so. The "R" is warranted for the extremely flaring, shallow, blind gear placements and the crumbly/seldom traveled rock. Fortunately the route isn't very long, the difficulties are near the bottom, and the ground below is very soft sand which pushes the danger rating (IMHO) back down to "PG-13". You're not likely to get seriously injured on this thing even if your gear blows.

Interesting climbing though, and fun. More length would earn this route more than a single star and also a stout "R" rating.