This is the hand crack on the left side of Zippy Rock as you approach from the parking area.
Great 5.6 hand crack!! From top to bottom hands size crack. Good early lead for aspiring trad leader as long as you have a few hand sized pieces. Seems like a good place for cold winter days.
Protection
Solid hand sized pro the whole way widening some at the top. Take a fist size or larger piece or two for the anchor at the top. Rappel slings at top or 3rd/4th class down climb.
A striking line from a distance which becomes less appealing closer up. Somewhat low-angled and gritty but not a total bomb either. One star out of five.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 19, 2006
A mediocre route - not great, not horrible. Worth a tick if you happen to be nearby, but I wouldn't suggest going out of your way for this one. Gets morning sun.
Two stars. This is a good, easy, crack to practice your jamming technique. The rock quality is pretty good on the lower 25-30' of the crack, but it does get gritty at the top where the angle eases off.
By Brian F From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 17, 2006 rating: 5.6
Sad to say - because I disagree with the community on this one...I love Gargoyle...its one of my favorite climbs in the park. Its just so nice....I know its sad. I've climbed it at least 8 times. Prob more. Its a guilty pleasure.
By Obi From: San Diego, CA Nov 5, 2007 rating: 5.6
Although not hard, the last 10' or so of the climb was an offwidth section for me and my partners. This section loses the aesthetic movement that the initial handcrack provides (unless you like offwidths - in which case, hats off to you).
The downclimb seemed roughly as hard as the climb itself, but it's only a fraction of the length.
Zippy Rock
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