Due to a tyographical error in the 1992 guide, the name of this route has been incorrectly listed (and relisted in Alan's book) as Peter Easter Pumkin Eater. The actual name is Peter Eater Pumkin Eater. Not a big deal, I'll admit, but it will corrected in volume 2 of the new guide. No need to perpetuate the error here.
A fun route on good rock.
By C Miller Administrator Mar 7, 2003 rating: 5.10c
It's particularly helpful to tape up as there's a ripper jam in the lower (crux) section. Good rock with fun moves and there's rarely a soul around. Three stars out of five.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 19, 2006
I really liked this one. Similar to O'Kelley's Crack, it's difficult to rate its difficulty using the YDS. I'd put the start at 5.11, awkward and reachy to a good fingerlock. Once past that, the rest of the route is no more than 5.8/9 with maybe one 5.10a move up higher as Vern mentions in the description. Very fun.
There's a cool shot of Mike Waugh on the first ascent of PEPE in the old Wolfe guide.
There is a rap station (climber's right) on the shoulder of the formation which requires some easy downclimbing to reach. The bolts (approx 2' apart) are each equipped with a single quicklink, which makes pulling your rope difficult. Chains might be appropriate here. Any thoughts?
As a side note, shouldn't the name be Peter PETER Pumpkin Eater, as in the misogynistic nursery rhyme?
Peter, Peter, pumpkin eater, Had a wife and couldn't keep her; He put her in a pumpkin shell, And there he kept her very well.
As I sit here nursing the hole I ripped in my left index finger, I have to emphasize Chris's suggestion to tape up for this one. It's the first knuckle on the left index finger that best fit in the jam, and coincidentally is now munched.
I was unable to crank through the starting crux on this thing. I think a little more reach/height would help reach the jam from the good foot holds, or maybe just a little additional burliness. This felt very stout for a 10c, but I'll reserve judgement until I actually get up the dang thing.
I see a trend with routes that have the name "Mike Waugh" in the FA list - most seem stout for the grade and downright burly. But who knows... maybe I'm just weak.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Nov 5, 2007
Was rated F10 back when I was a kid..... maybe even called 5.9 by some. Seems a bit hard for 5.9