This climbs the attractive face on the south side of the corridor and lies more or less across from the route Lost Boys (5.10d).
Thin crimping up crisp edges is what you'll encounter on this enjoyable, but all too short route, that's reminscent of the Oyster Bar routes. Two stars out of five.
After topping out, you'll need to boulder over the huge chockstone that spans the corridor to reach the opposite side where there's a slung block rap station (ignore the old sling remnants on the huge chockstone itself).
Take some webbing, you may want to replace the existing mank that we pulled a rope through a few times, and if you're generous, put some rings on it too, there are none up there.
Route is ok, somewhat repetitive thin edging/crimping.
I'm guessing the 2 bolt anchor/rap atop this route (and the one atop Say No To Jugs) has been chopped. Too bad whoever chopped the bolts didn't do something more worthwhile - like replacing the old 1/4' bolts on the nearby Brits In Drag, or any of hundreds of other rotting time bombs.
Yeah Chris, as of 3/17 they were chopped. It was my first time on all those routes, so I don't know how long ago it happened. And these routes kinda blend together in my mind so it's hard to remember which was on which side. But basically, anything that tops out on the Say No side, you'll have to scramble over to the other side.
Makes it a bit of a PITA to get off these climbs. Getting over/across the chockstone is easy enough..but there was no reason to chop them. After rapping off the webbing and pulling through a few times (no rap rings), we realized this was the rap for all the routes on both sides of the corridor, added an old locker to the station and attempted to crank it down tight enough to discourage somebody from bootying it.
On a similar note, someone has tried to chop the station atop Colorado Crack and mangled one of the two bolts. It's not dangerously unsafe at this point, but sure is ugly and could use a replacement for the mangled one.
I also found the loss of anchor on these routes to be a PITA. Really absurd to have a fully bolted route w/o a bolted anchor. This seems to be common throughout the park. Instead, lets have people do repetitive walk-offs destroying vegetation?
The anchor on Colorado Crack is mank but currently backed up by a long, fresh sling and rap ring donated by a generous soul.
Cling Or Fling Corridor
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