BETA PHOTO: Crack #4 (10c) is on the left. Crack @POUND...
Description
This climb ascends small face holds and a sustained left-leaning finger crack. The first 15ft of the climb ascends two sloping shelves. Using crimpers, mantle on to the first shelf and grab the second shelf. From this stance you can place your first pieces of protection. Mantle onto the second shelf to get into the thin crack. The crux is probably the first few moves on the crack. It continues to widen to tight-hands size at the very top and is sustained the whole way. Wish it were longer!
Location
This splitter crack is located in Isles Corridor. Approach the Isles in the Sky crag by scrambling up third and fourth class slab. On the ledge where Bird of Fire is, keep walking left around the wall past Dolphin and Nectar. Scramble up and over the slab on your right to find Isles Corridor. Immediately on your left is a 5.2 crack up the slab, which can be used as a descent from the formation. Alternatively, rap or lower from the slung rock above the routes.
Crack #4 is the thin left-leaning crack on the left, between Grounder and Crack #5.
Protection
The first available protection is 15 or 20 feet off the deck. The face moves before the crack are difficult and committing and a fall here would surely result in injury. The first pieces of protection are small but bomber nuts (black and purple Black Diamond). The crux is probably the first few moves on the crack so make sure to place a couple of nuts before attempting it. Take small nuts and small cams (Aliens helpful) up to black Metolius (tight hands).
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Oct 28, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b R
Easy to top rope from rap slings. Wouldn't recommend leading it. Old copperhead down low that would likely not take any real load or fall. The seam takes no gear. Higher the crack does open to 3/4" to 1.5" good finger and lie back but not worth the trouble. Go around the front and do Bird on a Wire instead.
Isles Corridor
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