Dolphin 

For a moderate wide crack, Dolphin is hard to beat. Just because you abhore offwidths or squeezes doesn't mean this climb isn't a blast for those who enjoy them.

I thought I was tough enough to do this route with nothing bigger than maybe a #2 or 3 camalot... After all, it's only 5.7, right? After running it WAY out above my last piece, I became rather gripped. I decided to downclimb, which should have worked except that I was SOOO gripped. I actually thought I might fall downclimbing and hit the ground, and by this point going back up was not an option for me. I wedged myself in nice and secure at a good spot, untied, and had my partner hike to the top and drop me the rope. It just seemed like the sane thing to do. After climbing the upper section with the toprope I was even more convinced I had made the right decision. Not a route to be underestimated, I can attest to that.

Friends don't let Friends climb Dolphin.......I led this route to warm up for Bird of Fire, I've done "Bird" several times since but with Dolphin I've followed the notation I wrote in my guide book "Never EVER climb this route again!"

And if you must climb this route, do as another friend did. After placing that last big cam in the bottom of the offwidth, hang ALL your remaining gear on it for your second. Then, of course, follow ArtM's advice and never climb it again.

Dolphin can be fun with big pro and ow technique.

I just realized that my comment regarding OW's sounded a bit flippant, didn't mean that. When I started climbing it was important to us to be all around climbers. A guy (or gal, not enough women climbing then) who could climb hard face but couldn't climb the equivalent level in cracks was not "a Real Climber". We looked down our noses at them. Yes, we were pompous punks! Consequently, many would devote a season or more to the discipline they were the weakest at, usually OW! I always admired those hot Valley Locals that could crank any type of crack or face. Now the disparity is indoor vs. outdoor. How many hot gym climber's cry like babies in a Josh handcrack (or struggle on 5.11 in the gym and then claim 5.14 FA's in the high desert, oh , but I digress!)? I have always felt that a 5.9 OW or squeezer chimney is about as hard as 5.11- in any other type of crack. How about Totally Tubular (5.8) in Loveland, GNARLEY? How about the Narrows on the Steck/Salathe, yikes? Or that mega-classic 5.10a (to right of Slack) at the base of El Cap that ends with the 5.7 OW? Hurt me please!

I'll have to agree with Dave on this one. The dolphin is a great route.Really not hard for OW, and as Dave points out, at least some OW skillsare necessary to do super classic routes, such as the Steck-Salathe.By the way Dave, the classic 10a at the base of El Cap would be theSacherer Cracker.

This climb is an excellent introduction to OW. Just remember three things, a big piece, long pants, and climbing OW is like eating an elephant, (one bite at a time!) The pictures tell it all.

This is a great climb!!! I love it! But to each their own of course. Perhaps it is because I was born near the ocean in Florida. But I stand my ground stating that the Dolphin should not be passed by.

I had many people warn me not to do the Dolphin, saying it was the worst thing ever, but I loved it!!!!! It protected really easily and well with little gear (4 biggest Hexes and 3 biggest Tri-cams) which makes for a light rack. As far as OW goes, it was not that bad, being on inclined terrain. And it allows you to try all sorts of OW technique in a safe-ish setting, just don't rely blindly on cams to protect you :) Definitely a climb I'd go back and do next time I'm out at Split Rocks!!!!!

FINALLY! Another that thinks the Dolphin is a cool route. It is a hell of allot of fun! Whomever you are that posted the recent comment, right on dude or dudette.

I led this route a few years ago. My buddy belaying me was a beginner, and boy did he learn fast. I got up into the off-width (which didn't look off-width from the ground) and the biggest piece I had was a #9 hex. I placed it (if you can call barely hanging it on two crystals 'placing it'), climbed about 10 feet above and listened to it fall down to the piece below it. I was looking at a long-ass fall so I wisely chose to down climb the route.The route has bomber pro the whole way, just bring one or two of your biggest camalots for the OW. Great route.

Not sure how one can rate these kinds of climbs. But nevertheless, I was writing for the "Bird" and remembered this oldy. This was one of my early leads and I remember running out of pro quick. As a matter of fact I remember downclimbing and pulling my "biggest" hex and placing it later. Does everyone know what a hex is? Dave, you should be able to appreciate that comment. Anyway, my summation of this climb is don't let the rating fool you. Afterwards I wanted Dead Bees because it had "bolts"...

A nice crack that progressively widens through the sizes from hands to squeeze chimney. A single #4 Camalot or equivalent should work fine. Three stars out of five.

Fun climbing. Once you place your last piece # 4.5 or a 5 Camalot just inch up through the OW to the top. This is definitely a sweet climb I'll come back to do again.

This is a great climb if you like'em big. I found it about the same difficulty as "Hex Marks the Poot", which is also a great climb. We had up to a #5 camalot and that made it easy to protect.

I too was spanked be this route. I stuck my hand in the bottom of the crack before racking up totally confident. My friend was going to need an extra #3 for his warm up the other side of bof. 10 feet from the top my #2 Camalot walked out I was greasy and would not have been testing any gear if I was to fall. When from out of Heaven I herd a voice you ok would you like for me to lower you a line. I gladly accepted. ow is hell.

Both of us got shut down at the top, left a 4 and a 4.5 Camalot at our highpoint, pulled our rope, climbed Bird of Fire, and cleaned the gear on rappel. Next time, we'll do the 5.10 to warm up for the 5.7, not vice-versa.No fear of a big fall - just a slow ooze and pure exhaustion. Love the 'like eating an elephant' comment. So true!

too wide!

It's a good thing I didn't read any of this before I did the route...I would have stayed off thinking it was a horror show!

I soloed the route to take pictures of my friend leading Bird Of Fire. Seemed very solid, with some fun squeezing up top.

Great climb, good introduction to offwidth.