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Isles In The Sky
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Wedlock 

5.11a

   

FA: Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 1,116 page views

Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002


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Me on wedlock.


Description 

This is a short splitter finger crack. It ends on a large chockstone 50' off the deck.

Approach: scramble into the corridor behind Bird of Fire. Walk through this corridor and double back into a similar, parallel corridor behind it.


Protection 

thin



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By Vernon Stiefel
Mar 25, 2003

Wedlock can also be approached by walking east around the Isles In The Sky formation on an established trail to the south side and scrambling over boulders up an east to west running gully into the corridor. Wedlock is an excellent finger crack climb on sound rock but I would give it 2 out of 3 stars because it is relatively short (3 out of 5 stars).

By Will S
Jan 25, 2009

Fantastic splitter that inexplicably gets no stars in Vogel. A little short, but it is Josh, and there's no rambling "filler" it's all quality. Ends on the giant chockstone, while the logical ending would have been to go another 15ft up the now bottomed out pro-less "crack" to the top. There's no gear available after the chockstone though, and without placing a bolt in the last stretch it would have been exciting to say the least.

Unless you're already going to be at Bird of Fire or the Isles Corridor, approach as per Vern's directions above.

Great climbing, mostly fingers, but takes plentiful gear up to #1 camalot with emphasis in the .4 and .5 camalot size. At some point there were some "fixed" rap slings on chickenheads on the chockstone, those slings were laying at the base yesterday, so walk off/downclimb the skier's right side of the chockstone toward the smooth chocolate patina wall and into a sort of gulley/corridor formed by that wall and the chockstone. It leads directly back to the base of the route.

By snowey
Apr 27, 2009

Awesome Route and BEST RAPPEL AT JOSHUA TREE!!!

The scramble off the chockstone looked a bit sketchy so we simul-rappelled off either side of the chockstone. The chockstone is fully suspended so your rappel is completely free hanging.
If you are not comfortable with this technique, you can lower the first person and have them stay tied in and function as a counter weight while you rappel off the other side on a single strand.