Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) 

FA:  (TR) Roger Whitehead & Chris French 1986 FL: Lavon Weighall & Chuck Davis 10/88 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 94 page views Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 23, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Moving past the second bolt on the sustained 5.11 ...

Description 

This steep face climb requires body tension and momentum to make it past the first three bolts to the horizontal crack which spans the Rubicon formation. Fortunately, the small protruding crystals and features used for smearing and hand / foot holds are firmly embedded in the matrix. Above the horizontal crack the difficulty eases and three more bolts protect moves to a rounded arete before a small slanting ledge is reached below the summit. A fist sized crack at the bottom of the ledge can be used to make an anchor with cams. Easy climbing to the top of the formation is necessary to access the chain anchor used to rappel off.

Protection 

Quickdraws for six bolts. Fist sized cams are necessary for an anchor in a crack at the bottom of a small slanting ledge about 10' below the summit of the Rubicon formation.

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BETA PHOTO: Rubicon Formation