Vern, looking stylish on yet another Jonny Woodwar...
Description
This is another much neglected climb, but due to its visibility from the parking lot at Split Rocks, and it's relatively accessible difficulty, it should see lots more action. The crack is very exciting and varied. The first bolt is solid, and the first few nut placements are excellent as well and easy to place. Technical crux is just at the start of the thin crack, but there is a possibility of failure near the top of the block due to the pump from jamming the flaring crack at the top. When I climbed this route, there was no anchor at the top, just a single bolt stud sticking out of the rock with no hanger.
Protection
Mostly nuts, a #4 metolius was useful up high, down low, one bolt to clip before you reach first nut placement
This climb was very challenging for me on lead. I used small HB and BD stoppers and a #0 TCU to protect moves past the bolt to the flared crack. Medium sized cams were easy to place in the flared and grainy crack but were less than inspiring as protection. There was a 1/2" bolt with a new hanger at the top.
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