Sarah beginning the crux section (old school 5.10a...
Description
Begin this route by climbing to a high first bolt and then continue up on grainy friction past three more bolts, the last one being above the dike. Bolted anchor/rap on top.
A fun climb that would be even better were the rock higher quality. Still, not a bad route and a recommended climb if in the area and wanting to do a slab route.
Location
From the Split Rocks parking area follow the climber's trail west, aiming for a large formation with a diagonal dike running across it.
The route lies on the far right side of the formation and is the first climb encountered when approaching the wall. To the left is The Woodshed, an obvious vertical crack starting with face moves.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 11, 2004 rating: 5.10b R
Sketchy at the begining and a bit sustained. Multicruxed and arduous this climb saw my ascent simply based on some chick's admiration of the name. Thanks Dave and Jan.
I agree this is a route worth doing. Fun, easy to locate, short distance from parking area, on the way to some great climbing (Isles in the Sky area), and other moderate to hard climbing in the canyon area itself. Some real Jtree friction type moves that will have you wishing you were a bug.......
Stylish moves for a friction route, climbing a face with just enough shallow dishes to make it possible. The crux runout seemed a bit forced though, as you're hanging out at a jug with the next bolt just out of reach. Anybody know what the 3-bolt route to the right of this one is? Had a bouldery friction crux low down in dark rock(11+ish)?
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