Mike Kidner heads up Bird Of Fire. Photo: Shana La...
Description
Climb the stellar finger-small hands crack to the slightly bulging finish. Nice ledge just below the final 8 feet or so to rest on and get psyched out. You can see the big chalk mark from the ground. Throw in some good pro here and fire it up.
There is a 2 bolt anchor/rap (3/8") located just right of the top of this climb. Rap back to base w/one rope (70').
Protection
Apart from the blank first 8-10 feet the pro is beautiful, a rack of nuts, and cams to gold Camalot size will have you sorted.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 11, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Outstanding route for everyone. If your new or timid to leading, this is a great TR (as I did it the first time). For those that have a handle on leading, it will require a bit of courage for the beginning section but the balance of the climb boasts excellent rest stances and bomber pro. Go for the Rubicon afterwards if you cruise it.
Ernest Sierras from eastern Switzerland.This was my 2nd try, successful redpoint. It is a beautiful straight forward route. I think more important than the climb itself is was there a good energy that given moment? I did try rubicon after I got spanked. The energy remaind the same it will be there next time.
Such a good line. The rock is some of the best in the park. I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it?
Definitely a climb I'd want to bring with me to a deserted island.
I have not done this one in quite some time. But I have to totally agree that it is one I would wish to have with me anywhere and anytime. And the rock? Yeah!!! That shit is on the money up there on Isles in the Sky. Most if not all of the routes there are a blast!!! Even the easiest...
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 21, 2006 rating: 5.10a
AC wrote..."I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it?" As Vogel states, "if in doubt, run it out!" Remember that mantra
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Apr 23, 2006
Instant Classic in my book. Just spent a week in JTree and this route definitely topped the list. Can't wait to go back next year and do it again.
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO May 14, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Great climb. Once past the bouldery start, the climb eats gear.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Nov 3, 2006
Great line and fun. Just before the top out a gold Camalot works like a dream. Unlike the description...a 60m rope works fine from the top anchors. Although, I recommend extending it over the lip due to wear.
This is a great line. Good lead for the rook tradster looking to break into the 5.10 level. I remember lots of good gear past the first 10 feet (which has a flat landing if you pop off). I do recall a lot of face holds to crimp and stand on. Some I remember to sound very hollow (especially nice hold before final bulge) and might not always be there. Worthy of many laps!
A classic John Long route. A beautiful line. Delicate moves up aways before getting in pro. Takes great gear after that. Fell at the top the first time I did it back in Oct 2006. Fun clean fall. Now I can get it without fallen. Enjoy this beautiful Gem.
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