The obvious widening splitter crack to the right of Heart of Darkness.
Description
Start this crack with a bit of a corner on a flake, bypassing just about all of the hand-size portion of the crack. Climb the widening splitter to its end, then trend towards the anchor atop Heart of Darkness on face and arete.
The smoothness of the crack, the nice sharp edge (for use once it gets wider) and the variety of climbing on such short a climb make this an overlooked semiclassic.
Rated 5.10b in the Vogel guide for some reason.
Protection
A single set of cams from hand size to as large as you care to carry, and a sling for horn that is the top of the crack. The face/arete section has no bolts - heads up.
Fun route to do while waiting for Heart of Darkness if someone is on it. If you're careful, and set it up right, can counterweight rap off top of crack instead of going to HoD chains... make sure you have it setup so it won't roll off though!
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Nov 7, 2009 rating: 5.9
Gear for me was BD #3, 3.5, 4(way tipped out). The climbing is easy if you are comfortable in the wide stuff, but if you aren't, an old 4.5 or new 5 would keep the climbing less runout
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