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Nurn's Romp 

5.8

   

FA: Dave Evans and Mike Raab, Nov. 1974
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 674 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jul 11, 2002


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Coming around the roof.
Photographer: Mike Hack



Description 

This striking crack offers positive jams and excellent gear making it a recommended route of the area. Scramble to the base and climb a flake to a ledge and then up a left-facing corner to reach the crack proper which pulls a small roof on good holds and then continues up a nice hand crack to finish with a lower-angled, slightly wider finish.

The descent can be done by traversing right to anchors atop Exorcist or via a memorable leap across the chasm just left of the climb's finish.


Location 

The attractive crack 50' left of Exorcist.


Protection 

Gear to 3" with emphasis on hand-sized pieces.



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Nurns Romp

BETA PHOTO: Nurns Romp

Christa Cline about to step right onto the face by the roof.  Big holds make the move easier than it looks.

Christa Cline about to step right onto the face by...


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By Murf
Nov 15, 2002

The rap from Exorcist leaves you about 100 feet from your packs...

By David Evans
Jan 22, 2003

Here is the story behind the route name. Mike Raab and I were best friends in High School (Corona Del Mar H.S.) and called each other Nurn. We thought the route was going to be harder than it was, hence, it was a romp! This route was one of our first F.A.'s.

By 5.10b4me
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 28, 2003

Climbed this yesterday, 4/27/03. a fun climb with great jams.

By David Racela
Sep 9, 2003
rating: 5.8

I found the start to be the crux and involves a series of moves. stemming and face climbing techniques are helpful. The short move right off the ledge to get to the crack is exposed but easier than 5.8. The pro on this section, the traverse, is solid just not in the best position. Sling it well. The crack is stellar and also easier than 5.8.

Good quality and a must do

By Ryan Avery
Mar 9, 2005
rating: 5.8-

I have leapt the chasm. Not recommended.

I would say this has maybe two 5.8 moves at the roof and then a rather short 5.6/5.7 crack. Fun route with good moves.

By Dietrich Walker
Feb 23, 2007

amazing route...the leap over the chasm is scary as hell, but totally doable. just don't slip when you make the jump. a great adrenaline rush to finish off a great climb.

By Will S
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.8

There are basically 4 ways off this thing, and jumping the gap is the last of the 4 I would choose. In order of most preferred:

1. Go right to the Exorcist rap.
2. Go around the left (north) side of the summit blocks past the gap jump and on around to the east face, continue south along the east face for a few feet to where there is a rap station.
3. Go south toward the Exorcist, squeeze through the crack/gap in the summit blocks over to the east face, grovel/crawl back north a bit in a horzontal break to the same rap station in #2 above.
4. Jump the gap o' death.

Fun, solid route. Recommended.

By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Very fun climb, perhaps thats why there always people climbing it.

By Brian Hench
From: Laguna Beach
Apr 14, 2008

What is the length of the Exorcist rappel? Are two ropes needed or can one 60 meter rope do the trick?