Begin by scrambling (class 4) up a low-angle right-facing corner about 75 Ft. right of the start of Right On, up to a big ledge. High Cost of Living, Cheap Way To Die, Lone Pine, Rough Riders, and Harlequin all start from this ledge.
Pitch 1:(Same as Harlequin) Walk right across this ledge to where it becomes more like a ramp, leading up and right and then blanking out. Continue right across a slab past 2 bolts (5.8) to the top of a left-facing corner. Belay on a small ledge with 2 bolts.
An alternative direct start is to climb the left-facing dihedral (5.7) up to the bolt-belay on top of pitch 1.
Pitch 2: Climb up and left on steeping slab to vertical face climbing. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor. 100 Ft.
More sustained and better protected than the nearby Harlequin. Maybe three out of five stars.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Apr 8, 2007
Shweet route, guys! Maybe next time I'll pull that first crux and actually get the tick! TG - didn't you say you guys had plans for subsequent pitches?
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Nov 25, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
Wickedly sustained, technical route finding, and excellent climbing. Get on this one... but get your game on, as it stays at you from the moment you leave the belay! The route is still cleaning up a bit, and the occasional grainy smear ups the ante a bit... and may have contributed to the "sustained" feeling.
This route is safely bolted (but see notes below on Harlequin's P1), though you'll pause a few times while pulling some "mantle-ish" moves a touch above the bolts.
Not being familiar with Harlequin, this route took me a bit to find. To locate it, head towards to lowest point on the main face of Saddle Rocks. You are probably 75' right of "Right On", and 150-200' left of Walk on the Wild side. You don't need to scramble to the top of any of the huge, obvious ledges to the left of Walk on the Wild Side.
A low angle 4th class section (40') heads to big ledge, and then a long - mostly horizontal - ramp system goes to the right about 80'. This is described above, but was much more traversing than I expected - it is basically horizontal. There is a little tree growing out half way that serves as the best landmark. The ramp ends with two bolts that lead right to the top of a corner system and the anchor. There are some other bolts visible on the ramp system, but you can't reach them from the ramp.
P1 (Harlequin's original pitch) is fine on lead, but pretty damn scary for the second. When they unclip the last bolt, they are facing a 20+' pendulum into a wall. The climbing is only 5.8, but it is very insecure - stick-to-what type of climbing. Do not take an insecure second on this pitch (do the direct start described above instead). My second ended up putting a cordellete through the last bolt hanger, made some moves, and then pulled one side of the cordellete through. Not pretty, but safe for her.
P2 begins directly above the anchor, and then follows a line of bolts up and left and then straight up over the headwall. Be open minded with the route finding... as it is easy to get suckered the wrong way - particularly getting to and past the first bolt. This pitch is harder than it looks and is super fun!
Two raps gain the big ledge below, and then you can scramble back to your packs.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
