Two nice long pitches. First pitch climbs up to a bolt, then traverses up and right on face to another bolt, and to the "orange flake". You can place a small piece or two in this feature. The pitch then continues traversing up and right past another bolt or two to a corner crack system. Climb the crack system, traverse about 15-20 feet back left, and set a belay at the base of the crack system seen from the road. The second pitch climbs this long crack pitch, and contains some nice cracks, OW's and chimney moves.
One single rope rap off the back side gets you down.
Location
When viewed from the parking lot by Hall of Horrors, this is the crack that parallels Right On, about 20-30 feet to it's left. It starts about 60-90 feet up & left from the start to Right On, and traverses up right to the base of the crack.
Protection
Standard rack, with a 4 & 4.5 Camalot size piece optional. 60 meter rope beneficial.
There's a more direct way of doing the first pitch: after passing the orange flake itself, continue climber's right but not all the way to the corner. Instead, climb straight up the water groove to the start of the wide crack. Not much harder, but with scant pro. This way you'll avoid having to traverse way right, then way back left.
We did this route in 4 pitches. The traverse at the end of pitch one was not really a big deal after tiptoeing across the slab. With very comfortable belays every 60-100 feet there seemed no need lengthen them out. I'd suggest some armor for your right elbow on this one!
Saddle Rocks
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