Identical start as for Where Have All the Cowboys Gone (5.10d). Start 30 feet down from the Iconoclast arete, high on the left side of Saddle Rocks. A bolt and gear protect to a belay anchor. Continue up and right past bolt protected climbing. Listed as the dreaded "5.8+" grade elsewhere, this climb has a short, well-protected crux.
Best done as a single pitch; if the first anchor is clipped extend it to avoid rope drag. I suggest climbing this, rapping to the anchor and doing the second pitch of Where Have All The Cowboys Gone.
Protection
A few pieces in the medium range, including a few nuts, will add some comfort on the first section. Mostly bolt protected.
this is a great moderate climb, Frazier Haney was attending Santa Cruz university when he and todd put this climb up, thus it got its name. i would give this climb 3 outta 5 stars. i would rate it 5.9, probably not 10a.
By Tan Slacks From: Joshua tree Jun 1, 2006 rating: 5.9
Have to say this was pretty fun. The first pitch of "...cowboys..." goes pretty easy and then The fun stuff. Up and right of the rap bolts, turn an overhang with HUGE holds and follow the bolts. Was able to put some pieces in to make the overhang move. Great views and exposure. 5.8+/5.9 you pick
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 26, 2008 rating: 5.9+
A fine route if in the area to do Where Have All The Cowboys Gone (10d), but I wouldn't hike all the way up for this route. Rap down to the Cowboys anchor and fire that one next!
Saddle Rocks
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