Lickety Splits is located at the northeastern tip of the middle Hall of Horrors formation on a rounded and scooped low-angle face. It is also about fifteen feet right of Zardoz (5.8) at a nice looking crack which dies out less than halfway up the route. Continue up the scooped face above to the anchors.
FALLING IS NOT AN OPTION ON THIS ROUTE ONCE YOU LEAVE THE CRACK IF YOU EXPECT TO KEEP DOING STUFF LIKE EATING SOLID FOOD AND WALKING!! DO NOT LEAD THIS ROUTE UNLESS YOU CAN GUARANTEE NO FALL!
Protection
Nuts, small cams. These only apply to the first portion of the route. There is NO pro on the upper runout portion!
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Apr 28, 2003 rating: 5.7
Led this route yesterday, 4/27/03. One of my favorite Josh routes. Falling is not an option, and you need to be a good face climber. The crack is a lot of fun also and takes good gear. Good, solid rock, clean finger crack to lieback. Face offers good friction. Found the rating to be correct
If you have any doubts about your ability on runout face climbs, one should not lead this route. Some friends of mine feel that there needs to be a bolt between the crack and the anchors.
Nice crack. Fun face climbing and falling is not an option. Not for the beginning 5.7 leader. An added bolt would increase traffic on this route and perhaps shorten lines at others. An added crack would shorten lines since most people I know don't know crack.
Totally fun route. Nice finger jams and laybacking.Killer pro placements. The runout face is a blast(nice and scoopy), scary but not impossible. Great way to toprope The Classic Diamond Dogs and the runout Zardoz.
After only about 3 previous trad leads a friend of mine named Jeff decided to try this "cool" line as we walked over to TR Janes Addiction. He thought this "cool" line would have a bolt up high and even though i disagreed he decided to find out. 30 ft past the crack he started to believe me that there was no bolt. The funny thing was that as he was up high, begining to freak out before reaching the anchors, he had heard me say to another novice friend of mine how if he ate shit here he would hit the deck for sure.
I dont normally post stuff, but this was a great route. getting pushed around by strong winds halfway between the anchor and the 3 aliens(red,yellow,green) that I stuffed in the crack made the route exciting. Falling is not an option on this climb. I remember manteling knob was a little unnerving (chris parks) I think the FT's ( read this as F' ing Tourists were wondering why I was sticking all the " gear " I had in the crack below the anchors. If they were around earlier I was coaching my belayer on running like hell if I blew out of the thing!
Regardless, this route is 5.7X. The initial section is nice secure fingers, but above, falling is not an option. The upper slab is fun and committing, but not for novice moderate leaders. A fall up high = dirt nap.
This climb deserves every star it gets. I led it first thing Saturday morning, March 1. The finger crack was fun, but I was seriously contemplating helicopter rescue about half way up the face.
I spent the rest of the day in an adrenaline haze. It was such a fun route, there was no point in doing anything else that day! We did use the anchors to top rope Zardoz and Diamond Dogs.
Hall of Horrors
RSS Feed
