This excellent route is one of the longest climbs in all of Joshua Tree and loads of fun to boot. Located on the far left side of Saddle Rocks (well left of Walk On The Wild Side) and visible from afar as the right of two long, parallel cracks which define the left side of Saddle Rocks.
P1) Face climb up a smooth apron past one bolt to a ledge with belay bolts. P2) A short pitch with a steep, exposed hand crack takes you to a huge ledge with belay bolts. P3) Chimney up the featured wide crack which narrows and then turns to a crack up a slab which leads to a belay stance at the base of a vertical section. P4) Easier climbing up steep but featured cracks takes you to the top (aim for a notch).
It's very possible and perhaps even recommended to combine pitches when possible on this route. Descend by rappelling off the shorter backside via two sturdy bolts which are located just left as you pass through the notch; a single rope will suffice to descend. This is a splendid adventure for the grade and merits four stars out of five.
Protection
Take a good selection of gear to 3" including some slings. All bolts on the route have been replaced and are 3/8" or larger.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 25, 2002
Just did this the other evening by headlamp - super fun! If you feel comfortable running it out and want to go light, you can get by with a few cams up to 3" for pro/belays.
The Gaines/Mayville route is called New Latitude (5.12) and is 6 pitches, making it the longest route in terms of pitches...however they are not all full pitches. Without measuring suffice it to say it's the longest traversing route at Josh. Finally a climb for those people who hang out all day at Gunsmoke!
Right On is a excelent route! Three Stars rating. I have been climbing in Joshua Tree since 1977. Tri- Cams work great on the second pitch on Right On. I use to climb Right On and switch cracks into Orange Flake ,a crack Left of Right On. Try the Rappell routeat the top of Right On, not the standard one put up by John Wolfe. You must walk down a steep ramp to theRappell bolts; a excellent 150 foot Rappell and closer to you car.I installed rhe bolts their in mid 70s
I agree that switching from "Right on" to "Orange flake" adds to this climbs enjoyment. Also, I agree that going light on pro works. Over the shoulder slings helpful. I did not take tri-cams but in hindsight agree that they would work well. Easy to run out, easy to protect.
On the first pitch it might be wise to protect prior to cliping the single bolt on the face. I discovered that even on such an easy climb as this one, over confidence and loss of focus can quickly become a humbling situation (It took some doing to overcome due to ego being overactive). Had I not placed pro in the right hand flake, upon a wee bit of a slip and slide, I today may well be hamburger. Racking on a gear sling as opposed to the harness is a good idea as well. When pressing through the flair on pitch three one can move the gear accordingly.
I finally hauled my butt over and did this climb last Saturday. I wouldn't call it a mega-classic, but it's a lot of fun -- especially the last pitch, even though it's probably the easiest of them.
There are two-bolt anchors at both the first and second belays (both unnecessary, but mighty convenient nonetheless), for those who want to climb this in four pitches. This is a climb that screams for linking pitches, though. The second "pitch" can't be more than 40-50 feet long. With a 60m rope, you can easily link pitch 2 with either pitch 1 or pitch 3. We linked 2 and 3, but if I did it again I'd probably try to link 1 and 2, since the belay ledge on the top of pitch 2 is much roomier and more comfortable than the cave at the top of the first pitch.
Great climb, this is about as close as it gets to a Tahquitz experience at J-Tree. I've done it twice and have always left feeling very satisfied. All three pitches hold their own in variety and asthetics. Pitch 2 is one hell of a weird experience, never comfortable (think offwidth chimney) but fun none the less.I need to lose weight so I can get my butt back on this climb.
Did this last week. On the first pitch and below the bolt, we put pro in up and to the right as someone mentioned before. Also, am curious if anyone has ever finish the chimney with a body bridge as we did instead of face climbing the crack to the left. Either way, I agree this is a must-do climb!
I linked P1 and 2 together with a 60m - had about 10' left I think. P1 can definitely feel spicy if your head isnt into it yet. There are 2 cracks on the right on the first easy (5.1/5.3 maybe) 30' of the face to put in semi crappy tiny nuts. They might or might not hold a fall and if you fall theres no way getting around bumping into stuff on the way down, so its really all about getting to the bolt. The 10' getting from the crack to the bolt on P1 is more like 5.5 but pretty polished. The next 15' or so up to a crack is polished and made me think a bit - first tried going right of the bolt but got shut down on the traverse to the crack and downclimbed to go left of the bolt which worked a lot better. The rock there is pretty polished from so many climbers and few big foot and handholds so I would probably rate that 15' from bolt to crack more like 5.6 - similar to the move on double dip getting into the bowl 1/2 way up. P1 and 2 are very protectable after that.
P3 (chimney) was nice - beginning could be akward if you dont have much experience with it. Knee bar with the left leg or straighten the right when you want a rest. Pro kinda runs out 60 feet up but the angle lessens a lot (maybe 65 degrees) and you wouldnt go anywhere but get stuck in the chimney if you slid. You can sling a flake or two on the way up. Hand size pieces work well the first 50 feet. Near the top of the chimney there is an arete to the left of the chimney you can face climb for 15' as the chimney deepens. On the right side of the arete is a gulley past some boulders you are aiming for. There is a flake on the right side of the arete you can undercling to get there.
P4 is nice cruiser 5.0/5.3 knob climbing for the most part. Lots of chicken heads to sling off or tuck the rope behind. As you get about 120' up, you need to go leftish about 15' instead of heading up the blanker face. When you get over a little you'll see the notch with a boulder stuck near the top of it. Drop over and behind it, belay. Then you downclimb (3rd/4th class) 15 feet and anchors are just to the north (climbers left) 15 feet.
Did this climb yesterday. what a fun climb! we are from colorado so we were kind of clueless about the thing, and not having too much off-width chimney experience, thought we were off route on p2 lol. but it was fun, and it is a must do! awesome exposure on the last pitch!
I agree with Locker regarding the first pitch. It can be a head/ego game especially when you're thinking 5.5. I think I may have protected it as he suggested as well.