Located on the same rock as Dog Day Afternoon (5.10b), but this route is on the east face and faces directly towards the road.
Thirty feet from the left edge of the rock is this steep finger/hand crack that passes a horizontal crack partway up. Gear belay and easy walk/scramble down a low-angled ramp off the backside (climber's left).
Although this route can be a little awkward in spots it's good fun and the short approach is hard to beat. A popular route and a good introduction to the Hall Of Horrors. Three stars out of five.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 21, 2002 rating: 5.7
A couple of comments:
1) The anchor/rap bolts are about 20' to the right of the top of the route (atop Cactus Flower) and a single rope rap will get you back to the ground.
2) The route protects nicely with medium-size nuts. Didn't use anything larger than a #1 Camalot.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 13, 2003
Yes, this is a good climb to practice the vanishing art of chock-craft. Repeated this route again yesterday (12/28/07) for the umpteenth time - man it was cold. Some nice moves through the traverse and up and into the crack above. There's a short down climb and then a careful walk off. I've never rappelled this route.
Did this route while on trip to the park and enjoyed it. Definitely will eat up nuts, but also smaller cams, there are places towards the top that a bigger (#2 or #3) can be used. Bigger cams cams be used for the belay anchor as well, the rap chains are too far away to belay from.
If you choose to build a trad anchor, take gear up to 3". I usually build one with a few #7-9 Metolius Cams. If you decide to climb over to the rap anchors above Cactus Flower and belay from there, protect the follower by placing gear in the right slanting crack. It takes medium nuts or small cams well. Don't use the rap rings as a top rope anchor. It's not good practice. The walk off is a bit steep for beginners.
After having not placed gear in over a year I felt pretty good just walking up and flashing this route, although I had to twist myself into a pretzel to get up it. LOL. Honestly it would be quite scary for a first lead but it's certainly not a sand bag, it's par for the course at JT...
I've been wanting to chop that pointless eyesore rap anchor for years. But I'll let someone else do it. Even if that anchor was put there to TR that wall it's pointless. There's natural pro right above it.
Please leave the Cactus Flower anchors alone. They were put there for a good anchor for THAT route (not Lazy Day). They have been there for many years.
Fun climb on tricky but positive jugs and a nice crack. Sucks up the pro nicely and seems to be a crowd pleaser.Definately worth climbing.Easy walk off.
Hall of Horrors
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