Hargis leading Space Mountain. Photo: R.Miramontes
Description
One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (The Unicorner). Start up that climb for 20' then traverse right on a fairly awkward ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climbs goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes a little loose patina plates. There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier. Rap off the top with 2 ropes.
Great steep climbing in an exposed atmosphere unlike much of Saddle Rocks which is known for slabs. If this climb sounds famliar it was pictured on the back cover of the 1992 Vogel guide (1st printing).
Location
This climb lies on the North side of Saddle Rocks which would around the left skyline as viewed from the road. Approach as for Saddle Rocks proper, but once near the base head left and scramble up talus around to the North face.
Protection
8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (3/8"), gear to 1.5" for the lower part of the climb.
Protect the crawl out to the first bolt by a cam in the crack on the left. You have to shuffle back and clean it after clipping the bolt otherwise you'll be stopped dead in your tracks from rope drag. A top climb. Always a good hold when you need one.
The route has nice position and good moves, but suffers from an inordinate amount of loose-ish rock (the plates are not all particularly solid). This makes the route less that top-notch in quality, but definitely worth doing. Beware rope-drag, slings would be helpful too.
Saddle Rocks
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