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Thin Vice Area
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Accidental Purist, The 
Thin Vice 
Vice Squad 

Thin Vice 

5.11c

   

FA: Rex Pieper & Keath Nupuf 10/94
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 38 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005


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Description 

Approach as for the Love Nest block, but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area. Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side that's set back slightly (this is directly below the highpoint of the rubble pile). Scramble through brush and a small cave past the base of the Accidental Purist (5.10a) and then make a quick left to reach this short north-facing wall.

The climb involves near-vertical face climbing along the right side of a striking seam using thin edges and the occasional opening in the seam. Balancy moves lead up to the last pin where intricate footwork and smooth weight transitions gain a small stance at a bolt. The final moves past the bolt involve a lieback to a highstep and a thumb mantle to reach the finishing jugs. Two bolt anchor with hangers only, but an easy downclimb exists to the climber's right.

A very unique and enjoyable climb that favors good technique over raw power. Great rock and a pleasant variety of moves make this a climb to seek out if nearby. Three stars out of five.


Protection 

3 fixed pins, bolt (5/16"), 2 bolt anchor (3/8")