The Kid climbs the left side of the detached slab down and right from the start of Walk on the Wild Side.
Make a hard move past the first bolt and continue up a long easy runout to the third bolt. Climb up to a steep headwall, clip the fourth bolt, and make a tricky step around to the right (5.8 R). Carefully climb up and left to the fifth bolt; a fall before clipping this bolt would be very serious.
Continue to the anchor and lower (100') to the ground with a 60m rope.
This is a fun route to do before or after Walk on the Wild Side.
Protection
Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor (all 3/8"). The 5.10a move at the first bolt is well protected, but there is a long runout on easy climbing between the second and third bolts, and a runout 5.8 move between the fourth and fifth bolts.
The route is about 100' long; you need a 60m rope to lower.
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 19, 2004 rating: 5.10a R
A decent route to do when in the area, but as noted a fall at certain points on this route would not be a good idea.
Please note - 60 meter rope mandatory for lowering! There has already been one accident on this route due to lowering with a rope that was too short.
All the bolts have been replaced and are 3/8" with metal hardware at the anchors.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca May 27, 2007 rating: 5.10a R
Bolt 5 is doubled for a shorter rap.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Oct 1, 2007 rating: 5.10a R
I was too impatient for the "waiting line" for WOTWS and decided to do this. The runout got me 8 weeks in leg cast! :P So, make that 2 accidents Chris! HA!
Saddle Rocks
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