Randal out the roof traverse and on to better thi...
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Bartlett and Vogel have different starts for this route. I started under the overhang, placed pro high and near the right edge then turned the corner. You'd better be aggressive getting out on the face. Then move straight up. I found all this a bit hair-raising until I could set higher pro. This route is sandbagged in my opinion. I know; what's new; it's JT. I'd give it 5.8+. Bartlett has it starting directly off the ground to the right of the overhang. It will go, but the leader will be quite exposed to a serious fall until pro can be placed.
Wanted to do this route ever since seeing the roof, but was too intimidated by the "R" rating. Finally I sucked it and jumped on and am glad I did. Great climb! Maybe "R ", maybe not, either way a fun route and worth the time. Watch out for loose rock on the second half. Luckily I tested a suspicious knob which broke nearly hitting my belayer.
good route, didnt notice any run-outs, but i did take a variation up at about mid-height and stepped right into a crack where i could get gear rather than do the face directly above. good fun.
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