You'll find this route, the original on the wall, on the backside of the wall with Jane's Addiction and right of the route Ledges To Lawndale.
Start just right of Ledges To Lawndale and climb the easiest route through the initial steep section (it's possible to climb direct at about 5.10+). Once established in the first horizontal (medium piece here) move up and right aiming for the solitary bolt. Clip the bolt, pass another horizontal (small cams/tricams) and make easy moves on nice patina edges. The last few moves are heady and involve leaving the security of a small ledge to make some insecure smears to the top. The anchor is one bolt and a natural thread which can be backed up with a small piece.
A good route with an interesting mix of steep positive climbing and insecure friction. This when combined with the other routes on the wall can provide a few hours of fun in the sun (or shade) if desired.
this is a cool climb but not for a beginer at the 5.8 grade. the final gear placement is slightly less than bomber, and a fall from the exit moves would provide a nice ride and end with a need to change your shorts. i liked it.
I sent a young couple out to this area today and wonder if they are one in the same? But on another note, a lady friend and I were top roping the area today and as usual, the area and rock provided great fun. Ledges to Lawndale at 10a is another real fun route.
By Bill Olszewski From: San Marcos, CA May 14, 2007 rating: 5.8 R
This is a fantastic climb but I've only done it as a TR. I can see in one of the pics, a gear placement in the first horizontal. Man, I can't find anything but flaring crack. Haven't figured out how to pro it but well worth doing as a TR.
The 10+ direct start is a sweet sequence on smooth holds with no feet.
Glad to see the R rating on MP for all these climbs. I was surprised that they're not listed R in the original guide.
I concur - 3 stars with the direct start which feels like a few 10 moves to me. NOTE: Easily set up as a top rope by walking up the East end of the formation. Anchor is 2 bolts however, not the single mentioned above.
Hall of Horrors
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