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The Asylum
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Shock Therapy 
Split Personality 
Venus Which Is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) 

Venus Which Is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) 

5.11a

   

FA: Kurt Smith 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 97 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005


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Description 

Located just around the corner from the striking arete of Split Personality (5.11d) is this left-facing corner system which thins and leads to face climbing.

Easy moves up the corner lead to a solitary bolt, which protects a thin face traverse (reachy move) out left to jugs. Easier moves follow and lead to the anchors.

Originally climbed without any bolts, another party came along (in 1989) thinking the route unclimbed and added the bolt and anchors, which is how it now stands. This climb offers a nice blend of crack and face climbing in a somewhat secluded area. Two stars out of five.


Protection 

pro to 2.5", bolt, anchors (all 3/8")



Add Comment Comments on Venus Which Is Green (aka Disposition Crevice)
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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Dec 10, 2005

Useless trivia - the name "Venus Which Is Green" comes from the the Jimi Hendrix song Voodoo Chile (at 2:43 in), which is on the Electric Ladyland album.

By Murf
Oct 2, 2006
rating: 5.11b

Last few finger locks harder if your fingers tend toward the big end. PG in Barlett which doesn't seem to make sense.

By Richard Beller
Jul 13, 2007

The PG rating makes sense to me. I fell at the top of the crack, pulled a small cam, and almost fell on my belayer, who ducked just in time. It's a great route, though. As always, make sure you back up small gear and use decent-sized runners, especially this close to the ground.