This climb lies on the left side of the east face (the one seen on the approach) and just right of an prominent chimney that splits the face. Follow a trail through some bushes to the base of the wall and then cut back left via some scrambling to reach the base of this route.
A start in a chossy flared crack (pro to 2") leads up right to a low-angled ramp and a high first bolt. Climb past the bolt (crux) and continue past two more bolts on near vertical patina edges/friction to a final bolt where the angle lessens, the climbing gets easier and you'll go about twenty feet to the bolted anchor/rap on top.
A good climb at a less popular area than many of the Hall Of Horror routes makes this worth the walk. Two stars out of five.
Arturo's, located in the town of Joshua Tree, has long been a popular mexican food restaurant among climbers.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 21, 2002
I thought I did this route the other day, but must have done something else, as the description doesn't match. The route I climbed was around the corner about 200' left of Trashman Roof. It has 4 new bolts, the first 3 are close together, and then 1 more closer to the top. There are no bolted anchors (walk-off to the left). The route is no more than 40' high. It felt like about 5.9 or so, maybe a little harder. Anyone know what this route might be?
The route you did is called Cosmic Dance Of Sheba (5.10c). 4 bolts and no anchor. Climbs the brown face visible in the photo just under the letter "M".
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 21, 2002
Thanks Chris! It did feel pretty hard for "5.8"!!
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 2, 2008
Felt like the crux was the step up off the fourth bolt. Well bolted. Fun route. Nice rappel anchor.
King Dome
RSS Feed
