On the left side of the face look for two bolts high up, then draw an imaginary line straight down from the first bolt to the ground to figure where the route starts. Climb steep overhanging buckets (with great holds) to a horizontal crack and then follow the bolt line past a second horizontal to the top. This route is to the left of Buckets to Burbank.
Protection
2 bolts, small nuts/cams in first horizontal crack, bolted anchor
did this again today......unlike last year when I felt it should be rated 5.9+, today it felt more like 5.9.......... The climbs near are deffinatly worth doing also. And for the faint at heart (Considering all the discussion going on about anchors, walkoffs etc...) this one has an easy downclimb. The anchors on top are not set up for rappeling.........
The first section to the first horizontal crack is great fun. The climb feels a bit dangerous after that. In particular a fall after clipping the second bolt could make you hit a ledge. I felt the climb much softer than 5.10, probably an 8 or a 9. This is the first time this thing happens to me at Joshua tree. I don't think I will repeat this climb. In the first horizontal crack there is a decent place for a #1 and a #2 Camalots. I didn't know how solid they were so after the climb, we tested the placements and they were bomber. On the second horizontal crack I placed a red alien, totally laughable physiological protection.
Kept expecting a 10a move, but didn't find one. However, I did do it on top rope. If I had done it on lead, I bet the moves would have seemed harder given the sparse protection.
By Jon Leicht From: Santee, CA Mar 5, 2007 rating: 5.9
Did this the other morning on TR. Very cold! Goofed of with a bunch of different starts. Never felt as hard as 5.10 only the topout felt a little thin, but my hands were numb...so i would say downgrade
By Bill Olszewski From: San Diego, CA May 14, 2007 rating: 5.10a R
This is a great climb with a good variety of moves. The start can be pumpy but doesn't have to be if you find the finesse moves, and is probably 5.9. The crux is definately the top out - thin and balancy. Best climb on this face, IMO.