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Hall of Horrors - West Wall (West Face)
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Ledges to Lawndale 

5.10a R

   

FA: Todd Swain and Dan Wirth, 3/85
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 266 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Oct 11, 2003


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Setting up the top rope. Photo by Neale Brain


Description 

On the left side of the face look for two bolts high up, then draw an imaginary line straight down from the first bolt to the ground to figure where the route starts. Climb steep overhanging buckets (with great holds) to a horizontal crack and then follow the bolt line past a second horizontal to the top. This route is to the left of Buckets to Burbank.


Protection 

2 bolts, small nuts/cams in first horizontal crack, bolted anchor



Photos of Ledges to Lawndale Slideshow Add Photo
Ledges To Lawndale

Ledges To Lawndale

"Ledges To Lawndale".<br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: "Ledges To Lawndale".
Photo by Blitzo.


Comments on Ledges to Lawndale Add Comment
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By 5.10b4me
From: Alhambra, California
Oct 12, 2003

I forgot to mention this route is on the west face of the west horror rock.

By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a PG13

It's possible to get a good 2.5" piece in the horizontal before the first bolt.

By Locker
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.9

did this again today......unlike last year when I felt it should be rated 5.9+, today it felt more like 5.9.......... The climbs near are deffinatly worth doing also. And for the faint at heart (Considering all the discussion going on about anchors, walkoffs etc...) this one has an easy downclimb. The anchors on top are not set up for rappeling.........

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 24, 2005

The first section to the first horizontal crack is great fun. The climb feels a bit dangerous after that. In particular a fall after clipping the second bolt could make you hit a ledge. I felt the climb much softer than 5.10, probably an 8 or a 9. This is the first time this thing happens to me at Joshua tree. I don't think I will repeat this climb. In the first horizontal crack there is a decent place for a #1 and a #2 Camalots. I didn't know how solid they were so after the climb, we tested the placements and they were bomber. On the second horizontal crack I placed a red alien, totally laughable physiological protection.

By Andy
Feb 9, 2005
rating: 5.9

Kept expecting a 10a move, but didn't find one. However, I did do it on top rope. If I had done it on lead, I bet the moves would have seemed harder given the sparse protection.

By Jon Leicht
From: Santee, CA
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.9

Did this the other morning on TR. Very cold! Goofed of with a bunch of different starts. Never felt as hard as 5.10 only the topout felt a little thin, but my hands were numb...so i would say downgrade

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a R

This is a great climb with a good variety of moves. The start can be pumpy but doesn't have to be if you find the finesse moves, and is probably 5.9. The crux is definately the top out - thin and balancy. Best climb on this face, IMO.