Friction with some edging. Rock is a bit gritty but not a problem. It is to the right of "Use a gun, go to jail". Mostly in the sun until later afternoon. Located at the end of the "Sheep Pass" parking area between "Ryan" campgrounds and "Sheep Pass" group camp grounds. Walk along the road headed towards the group camping area and around the first rock formation. Take immediate right as soon as you pass it and look to the rock face on your left. There you will see both routes (Use a gun, go to jail 5.9+ and Enter at your own risk 5.9)
Protection
three bolts, rap off of boulder with long webbing. Three there currently. Two old and crispy, one new as of 9/2003
This route is worth a shot and the "bomb" evaluation was an error on my part. though short, a bit gritty etc... it's in an area that is almost always there at ones disposal and a good alternative to some other places when they are crowded. Also a good little warm up for harder friction climbs on the way to "Split Rocks". If nothing else it just adds to your "tick list". "Yo Adrian..............don't catch me!"
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Jan 2, 2004 rating: 5.9
i totally disagree w/ the bomb rating. i thought it was a fun climb. maybe not josh's best climb, but never the less it was fun. i rate it between 1 and 2 stars.