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Where Have All the Cowboys Gone 

Where Have All the Cowboys Gone 

5.10d

   
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FA: Bob Gaines, Tom Atherton, Cal Gerberding & Alan Bartlett 9/99
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 741 page views

Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002


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Description 

A modern Gaines classic. Hard to believe he's still finding such gems in a "climbed out" area like Josh.

P1- climb a hand crack in a slab (5.8) about 30' down (closer to the road) from the Iconoclast arete. Belay on a big ledge.

P2- Make steep face moves on incredible varnish straight up past 4-5 bolts (5.10+). After 50' or so the bolts wander left, and the rock becomes less steep and more frictiony. Make engaging slab moves straight up past several more bolts (5.10). Belay on another ledge. A classic pitch.

P3- Finish up moderate cracks to the top. Downclimb from the top or maybe work down and rappel near Space Mtn, etc.


Protection 

gear to 2", bolts



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By Bob Gaines
Apr 1, 2004
rating: 5.10d

There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch. You can rap from here (100 ft.) to the bolt anchors on top of the 1st pitch. One more rap (70 ft.) from here to the deck.

By Murf
Feb 7, 2005
rating: 5.10d

P1 has one bolt. Pleasant, do Santa Cruz for a full pitch and come back down to the belay for the 2nd pitch.

P2 is a pitch of contrasts. Getting started can be a bit height dependent. Positive edges and holds are a boon to the OC plastic puller. The second half is a walk for the practiced JT slab master. I thought the second half was the crux, and the most enjoyable. Engaging, well protected, and needing just a touch of routefinding.

By Bo Johnston
Feb 8, 2005

Where is the route? Left or right of Space Mt?

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Feb 8, 2005

This route is way right of Space Mountain and faces west (toward the road) as opposed to north like that route. Both this route and Santa Cruz (5.10a) start down and right of the impressive Iconoclast arete, which is visible in the photo as the bulging left skyline.

By Randy
Nov 7, 2005
rating: 5.10d

Raps from anchor atop pitch 2 are as follows:

(1 rope - 2 raps): 90 feet and 70 feet (need a 60 meter rope)

(2 ropes - 1 rap): 160+ feet (two 50 or 60 meter ropes OK)

Pitch 2 is very nice, 4 out of 5 stars. Use runners on bolts 6, 7 & 8 and rope drag will not be a problem. Technical crux is getting started on 2nd pitch (10d), moves to last bolt are "interesting" friction climbing (10c).

By tony grice
Nov 22, 2006

WOW!!!!!! You gotta do this one,its got all the good stuff!

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.10d

OK - I'm sold, but how do I find this route?

By Randy
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.10d

This route is found on the high left part of the northwest side of the Skirt -- the Skirt is the main slab and lower part of Saddle Rocks. The northwest side of the Skirt is the large slabby to steep area to the left side of Right On.

Where Have All The Cowboys Gone begins below and right of the steep arete of The Iconoclast (5.13a) at the base of the large flake/pillar. The first pitch begins at a thin left slanting crack in the middle of the flake.

From there follow the above route description.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Apr 26, 2008
rating: 5.10d

Destined to become a well-traveled classic once it gets published in a guide. Excellent rock down low through the steep patina, with an enjoyable slab finish. I'm 5'8", and the first three bolts felt all of 10d. The final slab seemed 10b-ish to me. Extremely well protected, great exposure, fun moves, and well worth the 30 minute walk.