BETA PHOTO: Episcopalian Toothpick Boulder. Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This classic route is easily visible from the road as a straight up thin crack in a boulder just left of Saddle Rock. Climb the crack until it ends, then make a high step past a bolt to the top. The face move is tricky, and the crack itself is not exactly trivial either. A short but engaging 5.10
Protection
Thin to 1.5", one bolt (3/8"), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
By C Miller Administrator Nov 5, 2003 rating: 5.10c
Interesting crack climbing (5.10-) that dies out and finishes with face moves (crux) past a bolt. A decent route for the area (two stars of five) that sees little traffic but the arete to the left is better.
Bolted anchor with two shuts and chains. Rap or walk/scramble off climber's right. This anchor is in decent shape, but the bolts are REALLY close together, maybe only a couple of inches apart. Not an ideal set-up by any means.
Climb itself is mediocre and overstarred. Climbs like many Josh crack routes...with plenty of facey and lieback moves, with only a few fingerlocks and couple of flaring hand jams. Face move up top passing the bolt is the crux.
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