BETA PHOTO: Episcopalian Toothpick Boulder. Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This classic route is easily visible from the road as a straight up thin crack in a boulder just left of Saddle Rock. Climb the crack until it ends, then make a high step past a bolt to the top. The face move is tricky, and the crack itself is not exactly trivial either. A short but engaging 5.10
Bolted anchor with two shuts and chains. Rap or walk/scramble off climber's right. This anchor is in decent shape, but the bolts are REALLY close together, maybe only a couple of inches apart. Not an ideal set-up by any means.
Climb itself is mediocre and overstarred. Climbs like many Josh crack routes...with plenty of facey and lieback moves, with only a few fingerlocks and couple of flaring hand jams. Face move up top passing the bolt is not trivial, you can make a huge high-step to an edge (too high for me) or lieback off the last bit of crack and work a slopey sidepull out right.
Saddle Rocks
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