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The Oyster Bar
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The Oyster Bar 

5.11b

   

FA: (TR) Kurt Smith 1985 FL: Jim Thornburg, John Clark, Troy Mayr & Jeff Webb 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 347 page views

Submitted By: Josh Beck on Apr 5, 2003


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Carol Wong on The Oyster Bar (5.11b).


Description 

The righthand route in the Oyster Bar, sustained thin edging up a vertical face on excellent quality patina and knobs make this a very fun and reasonably pumpy (for the length of the route) outing.


Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchor / rappel.



Photos of The Oyster Bar Slideshow Add Photo
An interesting look up

An interesting look up

Oyster Delicacy

Oyster Delicacy


Comments on The Oyster Bar Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 8, 2003
rating: 5.11a

Somewhat sustained vertical thin crimps up solid edges. This route is noticeably easier than the one to the left.

Aka Oyster Delicacy.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Apr 11, 2003

I'm quite happy with the 5.11b rating. Not a super technical route, but if you have weak fingers (or are overweight) don't expect much luck here. Unless, of course, I'm missing something.

By TrevorB
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.11a

Super fun, if you're into thin steep edges. Great photo ops if your cameraperson hikes up to the right of the rock, it gives an expansive look of the whole Sheep's Pass area. A little bummed that there wasn't actually an oyster bar (or a regular bar even) up there; a guy can get pretty thirsty hiking up that far...

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 14, 2007

Watch out for the afternoon sun in March as the wall goes into the shade. You will need welders goggles to see any holds out left. You'll need the holds out there, but you ain't gonna see them..... There is a 3/8" bolt with no hanger right on the summit at the top of the route. You can hang a wired nut on this as a directional for the followers if you are toproping off the rap chains.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Mar 14, 2007

While looking at this route from the base it looks grim. Steep and thin = grim!! You'll also notice that if you blow the second clip you're going to bottom out on the starting block so beware.

The first 3 bolts were as expected steep but amazingly had pretty positive holds. After the 3rd bolt I was either starting to burn out of having trouble finding the right holds. Too much shopping for the right edges used up the last of my gas and I hung. Dang! The next several moves are small and hard with things starting to ease up as you go for the top.

Fun route - must do for the area. Easy to set up a TR if you don't have a solid leader.

~Susan

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jan 5, 2009

Oyster Delicacy?

By Eli Stein
From: Los Angeles, CA and Boston, MA
Feb 12, 2009

when does this route get sun (in feb)?
thanks for the beta!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Feb 13, 2009

This particularly small face would be sunny around midday (+/- hr or two). The balance of the escarpment is sunny for the rest of the afternoon.