The righthand route in the Oyster Bar, sustained thin edging up a vertical face on excellent quality patina and knobs make this a very fun and reasonably pumpy (for the length of the route) outing.
By C Miller Administrator Apr 8, 2003 rating: 5.11a
Somewhat sustained vertical thin crimps up solid edges. This route is noticeably easier than the one to the left.
Aka Oyster Delicacy.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 11, 2003
I'm quite happy with the 5.11b rating. Not a super technical route, but if you have weak fingers (or are overweight) don't expect much luck here. Unless, of course, I'm missing something.
Super fun, if you're into thin steep edges. Great photo ops if your cameraperson hikes up to the right of the rock, it gives an expansive look of the whole Sheep's Pass area. A little bummed that there wasn't actually an oyster bar (or a regular bar even) up there; a guy can get pretty thirsty hiking up that far...
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Mar 14, 2007
Watch out for the afternoon sun in March as the wall goes into the shade. You will need welders goggles to see any holds out left. You'll need the holds out there, but you ain't gonna see them..... There is a 3/8" bolt with no hanger right on the summit at the top of the route. You can hang a wired nut on this as a directional for the followers if you are toproping off the rap chains.
While looking at this route from the base it looks grim. Steep and thin = grim!! You'll also notice that if you blow the second clip you're going to bottom out on the starting block so beware.
The first 3 bolts were as expected steep but amazingly had pretty positive holds. After the 3rd bolt I was either starting to burn out of having trouble finding the right holds. Too much shopping for the right edges used up the last of my gas and I hung. Dang! The next several moves are small and hard with things starting to ease up as you go for the top.
Fun route - must do for the area. Easy to set up a TR if you don't have a solid leader.
~Susan
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jan 5, 2009
Oyster Delicacy?
By Eli Stein From: Los Angeles, CA and Boston, MA Feb 12, 2009
when does this route get sun (in feb)? thanks for the beta!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 13, 2009
This particularly small face would be sunny around midday (+/- hr or two). The balance of the escarpment is sunny for the rest of the afternoon.