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King Dome
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Arturo's Special 
Cosmic Dance Of Sheba 
Fit For A King 
Friction Impossible 
Little Princess, The 
Mission Impossible 
Tiptoe To Topanga 
Trashman Roof 
Triumph Arch 

Mission Impossible 

5.11b

   

FA: Bob Gaines and Charles Cole, January 1980
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 57 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: King Dome


Description 

This unusual route climbs the center of the east face of King Dome starting off blocks stacked against the face. Start directly above the Trashman Roof (5.9),which could potentially be used as an approach, although usually chimneying behind the stacked blocks is the method used to approach.

Climb past six bolts up the grainy face to a bolted anchor/rap. The first part of the climb is steeper on black intrusions and smears and is well protected. Higher the angle lessens and the climbing is more smearing past bolts set farther apart.

The reason this is an unusual route is the start- the crux is a run and jump past the first bolt to a knob. Typically the start is done two ways. 1) Clip and go taking care not to slam back to the starting ledge. or 2)Clip the first bolt, aid up on it to the second bolt, clip it then lower down with the crux pre-protected.

A fun route that takes a nice direct line up an impressive face. With better rock it might be more of a classic but it's enjoyable as is. Don't confuse this route with a newer one to the right - Friction Impossible (5.12a).


Protection 

6 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")



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By Bob Gaines
Feb 20, 2005
rating: 5.11b

A one inch camming device (.75 camalot or equivalent) is very useful between the 5th and 6th bolt.