I have no idea who Nurn was, or why he went romping, but I can say for certain that this is an EXCELLENT jam crack. The route is the prominent clean crack located about 45 feet to the left of the Exorcist crack in the middle of the NW facing wall of the middle HoH formation (Vogel calls this the East Wall - West Face). Jam your way to the top. If memory serves, this crack was wide hands in a couple of spots.
The guide says you make a leap across to the left of the top to descend. I haven't tried that one, but assume it works. You can also descend by scrambling around on the south side of the block above Exorcist and rappelling from a two-bolt anchor, then scrambling down. This does leave you on the back of the formation and you have to hike back around to get to your pack. The leap may be way better.
Protection
Standard rack, nuts and cams. Double up on #1 and #2 Camalots.
Here is the story behind the route name. Mike Raab and I were best friends in High School (Corona Del Mar H.S.) and called each other Nurn. We thought the route was going to be harder than it was, hence, it was a romp! This route was one of our first F.A.'s.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Apr 28, 2003
Climbed this yesterday, 4/27/03. a fun climb with great jams.
I found the start to be the crux and involves a series of moves. stemming and face climbing techniques are helpful. The short move right off the ledge to get to the crack is exposed but easier than 5.8. The pro on this section, the traverse, is solid just not in the best position. Sling it well. The crack is stellar and also easier than 5.8.
Good quality and a must do
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 9, 2004 rating: 5.8
Positive jams and excellent gear on this one make this a recommended 5.8 of the area. Descend by rapping off anchors atop Exorcist or via a memorable leap across the chasm, just left of the climb's finish.
amazing route...the leap over the chasm is scary as hell, but totally doable. just don't slip when you make the jump. a great adrenaline rush to finish off a great climb.
There are basically 4 ways off this thing, and jumping the gap is the last of the 4 I would choose. In order of most preferred:
1. Go right to the Exorcist rap. 2. Go around the left (north) side of the summit blocks past the gap jump and on around to the east face, continue south along the east face for a few feet to where there is a rap station. 3. Go south toward the Exorcist, squeeze through the crack/gap in the summit blocks over to the east face, grovel/crawl back north a bit in a horzontal break to the same rap station in #2 above. 4. Jump the gap o' death.
Hall of Horrors
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