BETA PHOTO: "Search For Klingons". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This route is located down on the far right side of the northwest facing wall that includes Exorcist (this is what I call the middle HoH formation - Vogel calls it the East Wall - West Face). The formation on this end is a large slab reminiscent of Echo Rock. The start of the route is found about forty feet right of the three-star chimney, Jaws, next to a big boulder next to the wall. Climb up a crack (broken rock), exiting at the top. Climb up the scooped face past two bolts, and then run it out the 75 feet to the top of the route (way up high on the slab). The difficulty eases off as the slab rolls off. Start looking for belay possibilities as you close in on the top. Note: This is NO route to lead if you're not absolutely SURE you can do it without falling on the upper portion!!
You can easily walk off this route to the southeast (off the back of the formation) and then walk back around to your pack.
Nice slabby climb, not really a 5.7 if you're proficient in slab climbing. Not nearly as exciting as Jaws or Lickety Splits, but has value as far as adding to your route list.
Definately a fun climb - nice crack leading to sparsely protected slab. Don't let the R rating scare you, if you like slab, the runout is easy climbing and doesn't need any bolts.
There is now a two bolt rap anchor after the slab eases off. This can also be used to top-rope this climb, as well as Doin' Life and Casual, but takes about 20' of runners to remove the rope drag.
Hall of Horrors
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