Diamond Dogs is located on the north side of the northeastern tip of the middle Hall of Horrors formation. The start of the route is very distinctive and easily identified. About thirty feet right of Lickety Splits (5.7 R) is a prominent flake that juts from the wall. The start of the route is to do the burly layback up this flake. Work up and to the left along the top of the flake, then traverse up and left to the first bolt. The second bolt is about twenty feet up from that, and then it's run to the anchor.
Protection
Few small to medium cams, nuts, one big cam for the flake start. Two bolts. Bolted anchor.
The irony relative to this route is if you can do the "5.7" undercling and layback at the bottom, the 5.10a further up is a snap.
By C Miller Administrator Feb 12, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Undercling/lieback the flake to a stance on the horn, load up some gear (pro to 2.5" works well) and then move up and left across the face to the first bolt (spicy if one considers the fragility of the flake). Also, sling can be girth-hitched around a knob just after the first bolt if desired to protect moves to the second bolt. Overall the pro is good but spaced and a good outing for a competent leader. Three stars out of five.
I did it on a toprope and found it to be fun, not impossible for a 10a (I've done harder 5.7's in J-Tree).The flake is quite strenuous but positive all the way. The upper 10a face is devious but not difficult. I wouldn't lead it unless you're proficient at leading 10's as the fall factor could render broken bones.
I can believe that people are not stoke with this one. It is so much fun, and a very interesting feature. The undercling it classic, the transition to the slab excellent, and the run outs are so much Joshua Treeish. Great fun route.
Excellent route, though I can agree with the "serious" (but not quite R-rated) rating. Place a #1 camalot behind the flake from the horn. A #2 or #3 will fit slightly higher in the flake, but behind a crappier portion of the flake. Look slightly lower than that pod and in to the left and there's a more solid #1 camalot slot. I made one more move to the second horn and blindly placed a second cam just for insurance. The crux for me also was the transition to the slab. Fun and slightly runout slab climbling above.
I think you could argue that the power lieback is just about as hard as the upper slab moves...once you figure out the sequence (from a good stance), it's not too bad, and the lieback is tough with crappy feet and no pro (it's too low to bother)...
Initial section is the definite crux. If you you're nervous on the undercling (expando pro sucks), have a spotter and crash pad. From there, medium/thin cams and nuts in the flake, as well as a cool head up top will get you through. The physical difficulty comes early. Nice, varied, fun route.
It is a serious route, but there is plenty of gear to keep this route from having an "R" rating. Place a piece high in the flake before traversing, and after clipping the first bolt go ahead and sling a knob to keep from falling back on the ledge while moving to the second bolt (as Chris Miller recommends). Lovely route though, and a great lead! Quite the classic mix of powerful lie back and more delicate slab moves!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca May 2, 2007 rating: 5.10a
After clipping the first bolt, while its not buckets, you're essentially home free.
Love this route. R ain't right, if you can drag your butt through the bottom section you'll be fine for the rest.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Dec 29, 2007
Great tip to girth hitch the knob Chris! Did this route yesterday (12/28/07) for the umpteenth time - man it was cold. A couple of my shorter mates had to be very inventive at the crux moves left - so, it's harder for shorties. What a great route!
There's no way the undercling is 5.7!
How many times have I yarded and cranked up that flake to the traverse into the bowl and had to pause to take a deep breath and get my metabolism to slow down so I can pull thin moves off!
Just did this route again for the first time in 10 or 15 years. What a great line. I forgot how much fun it is! I'd give 4 out 5 stars. 5.9-10a. Not "R" though.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Feb 12, 2008 rating: 5.9+ R
followed Tony Yeary up this route(thanks Tony). start is intimidating, but not hard. crux for me is the leftward traverse move off the flake, did not think it's 10a, 5.9+
In January of '86 I was on the way to JT when I rolled my bus outside Glenwood, CO; landed upright in a field. When I got to the tree, I pedaled to the Hall of Horrors, where I onsight soloed Diamond Dogs; obviously I couldn't be killed. Years later, on a trip with my wife, I led it, recalling my earlier ascent and thinking, "you stupid SOB"...
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