about to mantle on the sloping dike of Cactus Flow...
Description
From the parking area Hall Of Horrors appears as two clumps of rocks separated by a rocky notch. This climb is found on the left rock near the left end.
Three bolts are found on this route, although some additional pro is required. At the start steep lieback moves (small gear) lead to an overhanging hand traverse which will get your blood flowing. Next you must mantle up onto a stance looking at a big fall potential as your last bolt is a ways down and left of you. Once up a lunge/long reach past a final bolt into a flake concludes the hard part. A bit of easy face leads to anchors.
When this route was established Josh was going through some changes as sport climbing and rap bolting were becoming common in some climbing areas. Josh was still very much a traditional area and new routes still went in ground up for the most part. This climb was done in a unique style to uphold that ground-up ethic- as the climber lead up to each stance a power drill was hoisted up on a toprope!! These days Josh is more relaxed and most people are more concerned if the finished route is a quality one...and this one is.
Protection
3 bolts (3/8") and pro to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap (3/8")
Be sure to bring a few thin cams to protect the initial moves getting to the first bolt. Other than that, no other pro is really necessary. Easily top-roped from the bolt anchors.
If Jane's Addiction and such get 3 stars, this one deserves 3 as well (it is equally good).
Some friends put a TR on this route a few months back and when I took a stab at it I didn't know you moved up and left past the last bolt, but instead walked out the dike to the right and made a couple of very thin friction moves (11- maybe). Wouldn't want to do this on lead, as you'd look at a massive fall. I've also seen someone hand traverse the dike quite a ways right before mantling, for variety. Looks like you might get some small - medium cams in pockets in the dikes above the last bolt as it's a long way to the anchor, although quite easy.
The crux on this one as I remember wasn't the most enjoyable part of the climb. I remember standing on a pretty good ledge and good holds, (a crack maybe?) was just barely out of reach and I had to desperately lunge and stab for it. I remember thinking "Wow that was not aesthetic". Maybe I missed something but there are definitely more interesting 11s in Jtree.
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