By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 21, 2002
A few comments:
1) Fun and balancy with well-placed bolts! There are at least two ways to start - up a crack on the left (easier), or on the right past on steep terrain and some good jugs (harder). Consider a crash pad/spotter if taking the righthand start.
2) The climbing eases up substantially after the 3rd bolt, but is runout to the top.
3) There is a nice incut "flake" to belay off, which can be backed up with a yellow TCU.
4) Rap as for Lazy Day and Cactus Flower with a single rope.
Fun route, with a very conveniently placed first bolt. It is clipped from the side so that the crux move is well protected. There is super fun high step move shortly after.Great route for could winter days where anything else can be chili.
I remember placing a cam in the crack system to the left before stepping out to make the first clip. A little insurance policy with drop you'd be looking at otherwise. After I made the clip, I pulled the cam. I thought the route was hard for a 10a.