Looking from the parking area you will see two obvious rock formations that both culminate in a tower of sorts. This route climbs the right formation via the obvious roof crack easily seen from afar. It lies across from Dog Day Afternoon (5.10b) which is on the left formation.
This is a fun climb and not as difficult as appearances might suggest. Start in a right-facing corner to approach the roof crack, plug in a good piece or two and have at it (this is where the big cam will come in handy). The angle quickly eases after the roof and it's a hike to the top. A crucial flake broke off several years ago and has bumped the grade up from it's previous rating (5.10c). A suggested route of the area that merits three stars out of five.
Protection
pro to 3" (include a 4"-5" piece for the roof), bolted anchor/rap (3/8") at the top
Below the roof takes 3/4-1.5" cams. It's perfect hands at the lip of the roof and widens to offwidth from there. The 4.5 or 5 camalot has a home after your pull around the lip but it's is still hard at this point. With the flake gone, I would rate it harder than 5.10c.
I'd agree on 11a. I did it with just a #4 above the roof (placed from the first fist jam juts above the lip) and felt fine...the wider sections get much easier quickly. Fun jams.
Hall of Horrors
RSS Feed
