This climb is located directly across from the Exorcist (5.10a), facing east, and readily identified as a short, steep brown wall.
This is a semi-classic Josh sport climb that's well worth doing if in the area. The start is a little reachy (and may seem stiff for shorter climbers), but the upper moves are so good and what really make this route. The anchors are on the top a few feet back, so you will need to walk off this climb (to the climber's left). Three stars out of five.
Protection
4 bolts to anchors (3/8") The fixed pin that used to protect between the first and second bolts has been gone for many years, but really isn't necessary.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Mar 30, 2003
1 anchor bolt has recently been replaced.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Dec 24, 2005 rating: 5.11b
Easily TR'd as we did. Rounded reachy crux before entering the face above, then at the 3rd bolt (or so, as I recall) another crux while moving right. Nice route with nicer rock.
"Easily TR'd as we did" - Hopefully Adam is referring to the ease of setting the TR, because I don't think I found one single easy move on the entire climb; perhaps the first moves on the traverse.
Incredibly sustained movement throughout. My memory of this climb is feeling completely pumped and looking down to see I'm only 20 feet off the deck, and no real rest in sight. Interesting climb.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Oct 20, 2008 rating: 5.11b
Steep sport climbers, such as myself, are attracted to this route, but I'm not enthralled by it. It's OK. If you're looking for great sport climbs in this area, face away from Jane's Addiction and walk 100m to Love Goddess, Moonshadow, and La Cholla - harder but better routes.
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