Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Cryptic is significantly steeper and a bit more strenuous than the SW Corner, but by going up the right side of Headstone's south face, it stays over the ground and thus lacks SW Corner's incredible exposure.
Nevertheless, it's a fun, well-protected, straight-up line in an amazing location. Not ready to lead it? The bolts up top are perfectly set up to TR this route, if you can manage to beat the crowds (much easier said than done).
Steve, you were right about being able to sling the "Horn". But it was not needed so I didn't. But it would be easy to do, though unnecessary. It's a pretty cool little climb though. And the view is hard to beat. Needless to say, as we did when we did the So.Corner, we of course hiked in. Boy was it a long hike. Wish they would open Ryan so we could just drive on in. But being the "Boyscout" that I am, ...................and upstanding citizen.......................
i know at the top of the route it is pretty easy climbing but, anything can happen, after the last bolt the route gets kind of run out, so to keep from taking a long fall all you have to do is flip your rope behing one of the large flakes/horns at the top, or sling it either way it will keep you much safer. Peace.
By C Miller Administrator Dec 11, 2003 rating: 5.8
Great moves and position with an easy approach. Worth repeating at least once every season. Four stars out of five.
FA of this fine climb was done in 1970/1 by Mark Powell who placed only a single bolt and used a pin or 2 higher. The other 2 bolts were added later by unknown climbers.
I don't know about using the rap anchors up top for TR. They are fairly centered on the formation, if I remember correctly, and a fall could allow a big swing over the south face of the formation. Also, I didn't see any moves over 5.7. Nice route.
Watched my climbing compadre TR this route, its more straight up and down than SW corner, more straight forward. From what I hear the moves ain't bad either.
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jun 11, 2006 rating: 5.8
Excellent route that "feels" more safe than SW corner not that that route is bad. All the holds are there and the bolts are well placed. Don't worry about that featureless section up high, move right and its an easy romp to the top!!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Oct 22, 2006
It's been along time since I did this one. Repeated it yesterday and had a blast - what a fun route - don't know where the crux was, but didn't do any mantles. Melody Wong followed in Tevas (she doesn't recommend it) toting a huge SLR digital camera with a zoom lens.
I think this is a classic.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Apr 8, 2007
Fun, fun, fun! Be sure to walk the upper ledge with your hands, not your feet, so you can hang from the horn for that shameless photo op. ;-) And try it at night sometime!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
