One of the best and most popular places for taking beginning climbers, a great moderate boulder circuit and some of the most classic boulder problems in the park make this a popular destination. A good selection of routes of all sorts (slabs, cracks, faces), blissfully short approaches and a great concentration of boulders mean you probably won't be alone but also mean that there's always enough to go around.
Getting There
Head S/E on Quail Springs Road past Hidden Valley. At the Key's view turnoff/fork, turn right and after only about 100 yards make a left into a dirt parking lot. Cap Rock is directly in front of you, and a developed loop trail provides access to the bouldering circuit(s).
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cap Rock:
What about the routes to the right of Catch a Falling Star? All of these routes can be toproped from two separate fixed anchors. There seems to be mistakes in Vogel p.362.
Catch me at the Bar isn't 5.10a (Leeper bolt then on to bolt on Catch A Falling Star).
Catch a Falling Car isn't 5.11a (start at flake to two bolts). Have the two routes been switched?
Lastly, where is Tumbling Dice? If this routes goes up the face, there are no bolts except for the high bolt on Event Ho
One of those classic Vogel guide screw ups. Another item to be corrected in Vol. 2 (I am fixing all this stuff).
Route marked 2436 is in fact Catch a Falling Car (10c or so, not 11a).Route Marked 2437 is Tumbling Dice (10a or so).There is no route were 2438 is shown.There is no route called Catch Me At The Bar.
I always appreciate these things being brought up, so I can be sure that I correct every mistake (and not make too many more).
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