Saddle Rocks

BETA PHOTO: Saddle Rocks from the road near Hall of Horrors. T...

Description 

Saddle Rocks, which rise out of the west flank of Ryan Mountain, are probably the largest single formation in the park, and they dominate the view from virtually anywhere in the Lost Horse Valley. They're also home to some of the longest climbs in the park.

Probably the most notable climb here is the classic Walk On The Wild Side, a three-pitch 5.7+ that ascends the west face of the formation. Right On (3 pitches, 5.5) is also very worthwhile, as are a number of other climbs, ranging from 5.8 on the low end, to far far harder than most of us will ever climb on the high end.

Most routes offer a rap descent, and in some cases a second rope may come in handy.

Getting There 

Park on the side of the main park road, between Ryan Campground and Sheep Pass. The parking spot is almost due west of the formation -- you should be looking at it head on. Follow marked Access Fund trails for several hundred yards to the base of Walk on the Wild Side. Traverse to either side of the formation for climbs on the north and south faces.

Parking is also available to the north, near the Ryan Mountain trailhead, but the approach is significantly longer and, due to the topography of the gullies that come off of Ryan Mountain, it is also significantly harder.

The Classics

Featured Route For Saddle Rocks

Space Mountain 5.10b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Saddle Rocks

One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (The Unicorner). Start up that climb for 20' then traverse right on a fairly awkward ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climbs goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes a little loose patina plates. There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier. Rap off the t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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BETA PHOTO: Saddle Rocks showing the lesser visited south side...	Saddle Rocks at sunset. Photo by Blitzo.	Saddle Rocks from near Target Rock. Photo by Blitz...
Slab climbing-Saddle Rocks area. Photo by Blitzo.	Saddle Rocks from Ryan Mountain Trail. Photo by Bl...	Saddle Rocks
"Charlton Heston is My President". Photo by Blitzo...	View from the parking lot of Saddle Rocks.	Saddle Rocks before sunset, JTNP.