Sheep Pass Area

Moonrise over Ryan Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Sheep Pass is a large, vague area near the southeastern end of the broader Lost Horse Valley (technically, the pass, several miles east of Hidden Valley Campground on the main park road, divides Lost Horse Valley from Queen Valley, and the Sheep Pass group campground lies on the Queen Valley side of the pass, but most of the climbing is on the Lost Horse side of the pass). Incidentally, if you're coming with a group, Sheep Pass is the place to try to get a campsite -- but make your reservations way in advance.

The most prominent formation in the Sheep Pass area is the huge Saddle Rocks, which sit high up on the side of Ryan Mountain (which provides the eastern border of the Lost Horse Valley). Saddle Rocks can be seen from miles away, and their faces contain some of the longest climbs in the park. Other smaller areas in Sheep Pass include Cap Rock, Television Wall, Cowboy Crags, and the Ryan Campground area (notable for some nice bouldering, and of course the aptly-named Headstone Rock).

For a sparse area, however, Sheep Pass has several must-climb classics. Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+) is a classic, slabby 3-pitch ascent up the east face of Saddle Rocks, and the Headstone's SW Corner (5.6) and Cryptic (5.8) are deservedly popular routes to the top of a truly unique formation.

Getting There 

As noted above, Sheep Pass generally lies on or near the main park road, a few miles east of Hidden Valley Campground. Headstone Rock is best accessed from within Ryan Campground, and turnouts for Saddle Rocks, Cap Rock, and the group campground are clearly signed.

Featured Route For Sheep Pass Area

Exorcist 5.10a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hall of Horrors

This classic Josh route is on the backside (west-facing) of the rock facing the road. The climb is roughly in the middle of the rock and starts off a ledge in a recessed area. Thin jams/liebacking up a smooth, thin crack characterize the start which protects well with wires and small cams. The crack ends and turns to face climbing past a bolt which protects to the top. Rap from anchors on the ledge above with one rope. ...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Sheep Pass Area

Prickly Pear near Target Rock. photo by Blitzo.	Ryan Mountain-snow. Photo by Blitzo.	Top of Ryan Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Saddle Rocks and Cowboy Crags from the Sandy Wash ...	Planet X Pinnacle. Photo by Blitzo.	Bouldering near Saddle Rocks, Joshua Tree.
Ryan Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.	Cap Rock-late afternoon. Photo by Blitzo.	Cholla detail, Joshua Tree NP.
Blooming joshua tree near Cap Rock. Photo by Blitz...	Display at the Oyster Bar parking area, JTNP.	Cap Rock and Joshua Tree before sunset, JTNP.