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Sheep Pass Area

Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse
Elevation: 4,300 feet
Latitude: 33.9986  Longitude: -116.1448 
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Sheep Pass from Ryan Campground, Headstone in the ...


Description 

Sheep Pass is a large, vague area near the southeastern end of the broader Lost Horse Valley (technically, the pass, several miles east of Hidden Valley Campground on the main park road, divides Lost Horse Valley from Queen Valley, and the Sheep Pass group campground lies on the Queen Valley side of the pass, but most of the climbing is on the Lost Horse side of the pass). Incidentally, if you're coming with a group, Sheep Pass is the place to try to get a campsite -- but make your reservations way in advance.

The most prominent formation in the Sheep Pass area is the huge Saddle Rocks, which sit high up on the side of Ryan Mountain (which provides the eastern border of the Lost Horse Valley). Saddle Rocks can be seen from miles away, and their faces contain some of the longest climbs in the park. Other smaller areas in Sheep Pass include Cap Rock, Television Wall, Cowboy Crags, and the Ryan Campground area (notable for some nice bouldering, and of course the aptly-named Headstone Rock).

For a sparse area, however, Sheep Pass has several must-climb classics. Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+) is a classic, slabby 3-pitch ascent up the east face of Saddle Rocks, and the Headstone's SW Corner (5.6) and Cryptic (5.8) are deservedly popular routes to the top of a truly unique formation.


Getting There 

As noted above, Sheep Pass generally lies on or near the main park road, a few miles east of Hidden Valley Campground. Headstone Rock is best accessed from within Ryan Campground, and turnouts for Saddle Rocks, Cap Rock, and the group campground are clearly signed.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sheep Pass Area:
Right On   5.5     Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet   Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
SW Corner   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock
Lazy Day   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hall of Horrors : South Horror Rock
Cryptic   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock
Nurn's Romp   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - East Wall...
Walk on the Wild Side   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Orange Flake   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches   Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Exorcist   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - East Wall...
Diamond Dogs   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - East Wall...
Dog Day Afternoon   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hall of Horrors : South Horror Rock
Space Mountain   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Harley Queen   5.10b/c     Trad, 2 pitches   Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Episcopalian Toothpick   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Saddle Rocks Area : Theoretical Boulder
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone   5.10d     Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet   Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Heart of Darkness   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock
Grit Roof   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hall of Horrors : North Horror Rock
Jane's Addiction   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - West Wall...
The Oyster Bar   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Oyster Bar Area : The Oyster Bar
Cactus Flower   5.11b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hall of Horrors : South Horror Rock
Split Personality   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Oyster Bar Area : The Asylum
Browse More Classics in Sheep Pass Area

Featured Route For Sheep Pass Area
Tony Sartin on the crux third pitch.

Silver Spur 5.12  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Saddle Rocks
This route is a variation to Bosch Job. Pitches 1 and 2 follow Bosch Job and the 3rd pitch climbs up and left where Bosch Job moves right.Begin by scrambling up a low-angle slab (at a right-facing corner) to a big ledge about 75 ft. right from the start of Right On. Pitch 1: Go left around the corner, then up a low-angle slab (5.5) to a belay at a small ledge with a block. Pitch 2 (10a): Up steepening face to a bolt, move left to a thin flak...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Sheep Pass Area Slideshow Add Photo
Moonrise over Ryan Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Moonrise over Ryan Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Prickly Pear near Target Rock.<br />photo by Blitzo.

Prickly Pear near Target Rock.
photo by Blitzo.


Ryan Mountain-snow.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Ryan Mountain-snow.
Photo by Blitzo.


Top of Ryan Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Top of Ryan Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Saddle Rocks and Cowboy Crags from the Sandy Wash Corridor, Joshua Tree.

Saddle Rocks and Cowboy Crags from the Sandy Wash ...

Planet X Pinnacle.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Planet X Pinnacle.
Photo by Blitzo.


Bouldering near Saddle Rocks, Joshua Tree.

Bouldering near Saddle Rocks, Joshua Tree.

Ryan Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Ryan Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Cholla detail, Joshua Tree NP.

Cholla detail, Joshua Tree NP.

Blooming joshua tree near Cap Rock.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Blooming joshua tree near Cap Rock.
Photo by Blitz...


Display at the Oyster Bar parking area, JTNP.

Display at the Oyster Bar parking area, JTNP.

Cap Rock and Joshua Tree before sunset, JTNP.

Cap Rock and Joshua Tree before sunset, JTNP.

A nice collection of plants...

A nice collection of plants...

Joshua Tree sunset from Hall of Horrors, Joshua Tree.

Joshua Tree sunset from Hall of Horrors, Joshua Tr...

Celebrating after an ascent of Headstone Rock, Joshua Tree.

Celebrating after an ascent of Headstone Rock, Jos...