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DescriptionSheep Pass is a large, vague area near the southeastern end of the broader Lost Horse Valley (technically, the pass, several miles east of Hidden Valley Campground on the main park road, divides Lost Horse Valley from Queen Valley, and the Sheep Pass group campground lies on the Queen Valley side of the pass, but most of the climbing is on the Lost Horse side of the pass). Incidentally, if you're coming with a group, Sheep Pass is the place to try to get a campsite -- but make your reservations way in advance. Getting ThereAs noted above, Sheep Pass generally lies on or near the main park road, a few miles east of Hidden Valley Campground. Headstone Rock is best accessed from within Ryan Campground, and turnouts for Saddle Rocks, Cap Rock, and the group campground are clearly signed. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sheep Pass Area:
Right On 5.5 Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
SW Corner 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock
Lazy Day 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Hall of Horrors : South Horror Rock
Cryptic 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock
Orange Flake 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Walk on the Wild Side 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Nurn's Romp 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - East Wall...
Exorcist 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - East Wall...
Diamond Dogs 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - East Wall...
Dog Day Afternoon 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Hall of Horrors : South Horror Rock
Space Mountain 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Harley Queen 5.10b/c Trad, 2 pitches Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Episcopalian Toothpick 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Saddle Rocks Area : Theoretical Boulder
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone 5.10d Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks
Heart of Darkness 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock
Grit Roof 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Hall of Horrors : North Horror Rock
The Oyster Bar 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Oyster Bar Area : The Oyster Bar
Jane's Addiction 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Hall of Horrors : Hall of Horrors - West Wall...
Cactus Flower 5.11b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Hall of Horrors : South Horror Rock
Split Personality 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Oyster Bar Area : The Asylum
Featured Route For Sheep Pass Area
Space Mountain 5.10b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Saddle Rocks
One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (The Unicorner). Start up that climb for 20' then traverse right on a fairly awkward ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climbs goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes a little loose patina plates. There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier. Rap off the t...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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