Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Manure Pile
Show routes:
Select route...
Allen Steck Memorial Route, The 
Barely Crankin' 
Decepticon 
Mighty High 
Slightly Ahead Of Our Time 
Snake Dike, The 
Three Amigos, The 
Tom Bombadil 
unknown 

Decepticon 

5.10a/b

   

FA: Jim Thoen and Susan Hurst
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 185 page views

Submitted By: Woody Stark on Apr 21, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Decepticon (5.10a) climbs the smoothest section o...


Description 

This route is located on the right end of the west face of The Manure Pile formation. This is a fine route that I've led twice and will lead again. The crux is at the beginning and is height dependent; for me at five nine, it's around ten b/c. If you're shorter, well, life's unfair. Once over the initial pullup, the climb swings up and to the left with enjoyable climbing all the way.


Protection 

Two bolts and a standard rack



Add Comment Comments on Decepticon
Show which comments
By Chris Miller
Administrator
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.10a

Decent climb right out of the car (be mindful of nearby campers). The real name of this route is Decepticon, the name of a Transformer-type toy. See the link here -

http://www.hasbro.com/transformers/energon/pl/PAGE.browse/PG>>>>>

FA was probably early to mid 80's I think.

By Woody Stark
Jun 8, 2004

I noticed the differences in spelling between Bartlett and Vogel and assumed "Decepticon" was a typo.

By Locker
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.10a

did it today with Tan. Decent climb! And at 5.8 feet tall, it goes at 5.10a.........

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b

Thoen and his wife were bored when they did this...

By tony grice
Nov 15, 2006

3 bolts, bolt 2 is loose, watch out. Fun route, easy TR.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 27, 2007

For me, at 5' 91/2" the route feels like 10a; shorter folk must make one more, much harder fiction move at the first bolt to gain the edge for the left hand.
After the crux, the route goes up and right, not left, although there is a curious bolt to the left between bolts two and three.
There are three bolts on this climb. As of this date the top (third) bolt is still very loose.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 12, 2007

The top bolt has been replaced and is good to go now.