Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Foundry, The
Show routes:
Select route...
Jumar of Flesh 
Little Lieback 
Metal Shop 
Six-Pack Crack 
Son Volt Arete 
Vaino's Crack 

Son Volt Arete 

5.12-

   

FA: FA Matt Bebe, Dave Mayville ?? TR - FFA Tom Murphy, Tony Sartin 10/2006
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 133 page views

Submitted By: Murf on Nov 4, 2009


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Tony just past the crux.


Description 

Climb a shallow easy crack (1 bolt) to a shelf. Clip another bolt and move directly onto the arete. A series of powerful and technical moves to the next bolt comprise the crux of this route. A few stances help control the pump, topped with a tricky ending. Quite short, but with almost zero approach and easy off anchors the Son Volt Arete has alot to offer.


Location 

The Foundry is comprised of a number of small formations described in Joshua Tree West. The Son Volt Arete is the line just right of Little Lieback on the Foundry East Face. Start down and right of the large boulder that sits at the base.


Protection 

5 Bolts to Chain Anchors



Comments on Son Volt Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By RobM
Nov 10, 2009

Funny that you guys shun bouldering, yet you put the effort out to bolt this 15ft. route. Looks like something I would bolt!

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 10, 2009

RobM...years ago, I put in an anchor on this climb, top roped it (hang-dog style), and put in the first bolt on the lead with a hand drill. I intended on finishing the route, but after top roping it and seeing it was too much route for me, I lost interest. Tony and Murf finished bolting it, and sent it;...but I dont' think they were all that excited about it;...they were just finishing off a route I started, satisfying their curiousities, and having a day at the crags.....(it's more than 15 feet, and plenty long to be a short sporto route....if you can climb at this level, it's sort of a fun route.....not a ***** classic, but worth a burn, you'll get a workout, maybe some cool pics, and it's only a bee's dick from the road...)

By Murf
Nov 11, 2009

Its true, bouldering isn't my thing. Any the credit for any effort has to go to Todd (as he mentions) and Tony, I'm basically a subman on this one. The question is what did you think of the route?

By RobM
Nov 13, 2009

Thats your bolt Todd? I thought you used railroad spikes hammered directly into the rock. Murf - Went over there to get on it, but it started getting dark, next time!

p.s. Isn't this actually on the Slump formation?