This route is among many people's favorite climbs at J-Tree and I would have to say that it's the coolest single pitch I've done at the Tree.
Locate the stunning left-facing dihedral which faces the road...you can't miss it. A toprope can be set up top without too much trouble, which means the climb is likely to be swarmed by a TR-ing mob from time to time.
The climb can either be started by climbing easily in from the boulder on the left or via a direct start (5.10). The crux (5.11-) comes right away with in a very technical stemming corner with little in the way of hands (RPs, black alien). Stem up the amazing corner to a section of good hand jams and rest as best you can. A second crux comes at the top pulling around a small roof the caps the dihedral (10+). Continue to the top of the formation where a good anchor can be set with large nuts and hand-sized cams.
Walk off to the right, picking your way down ledges to circle back left to the base.
Protection
Nuts, including RPs. Cams up to #2 camalot. A black alien or equivalent is helpful.
By Chris Miller Administrator Mar 21, 2003 rating: 5.11a
The direct start is far superior and definately recommended. Take care when placing pro at the start of the layback section as there is a section of hollow-sounding rock regularly used to set gear. Also, if much gear is placed in the middle section be mindful of rope drag. Once I watched a leader pitch off the upper crux and as the rope came taut several pieces in the middle popped out. 4 out of 5 stars.
Be careful of the rock on the direct start. A large and well used foothold at the start turned to dust on me. When my weight came on to the piece i had placed the rock around it broke. To make a short story shorter, I ended up with a badly bruised ass and a couple of days off. The rock at the start is some of the worst I have seen on a good route at j-tree. BE CAREFUL!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 21, 2003 rating: 5.11b
Did the hand-traverse start. The smooth dihedral section was delicate and technical and the crux in my opinion, thin fingers would certainly help. Middle section was a relief but I remember the pump encroaching as I hit the grand finale. Power very helpful here.
On the FFA of this route, the entire climb was rife with loose rock, but was still obviously a great route. The crux section (the stemming down low) had one fairly large hold on the right side of the corner. It was probably an inch wide and a few inches long, but composed of layer after layer of potato chip rock (as was much of the right wall). Near the top layback section, I cleaned a large stopper, by pulling it through the ball-bearing filled crack!
I did this route most recently about a year ago; it is a testiment to what traffic can do to totally clean the rock of loose flakes and ball-bearings. A classic.
I led this route not long after it was established as a free climb and it was just like Randy described. I remember it being stunning but spooky lead. I am actually glad to hear it has been "groomed" into civility. I am planning a trip out there this March and have always wanted to go back to this cool route. Unfortunately, time, and other thieves, have tarnished the stainless steel of my shrinking family jewels. I dont think I would want to lead it like it was now that my juvenile juices have turned to geriatric jelly.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 22, 2004 rating: 5.11b
Can be set up, as we did, as a TR. The middle crux takes more time than the top. My buddy labeled this as one of the best in JTree.
Does anyone know if the FFA was done as a direct start or from the traverse in?
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 16, 2005 rating: 5.11a
The route has traditionally been shown (in guidebooks) as traversing in from the left, which leads me to believe the FFA was done in that manner. Either start is good, but the direct start affords a little more climbing.
Just finished 2 weeks in the park and this route was my favorite. Such an aesthetic line and the rock is not rough at all. I used BD microstoppers primarily for the crux, as well as a very small BD stopper and a #0 tcu down low. A blue alien was too large. All the gear is there and it can be very safely led. Get a good rest before the end crux!
The overhanging off-fingers lieback at the top was the crux for me. No problem with the thin, stemming corner.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 11, 2007 rating: 5.11a
What a line!
The stemming corner is pretty straightforward (if you can stem :). BD micronuts, a green Alien, and purple and green C3 sewed it up. C3s go in the top of the stem section like a knife through butter! The middle section is cruiser thin jams with big rests - including a no hands stem rest.
The finishing crux isn't that hard, but don't get suckered into a rush layback like I did! Instead square up to the crack and work the crack (and dodgy feet) until you can get the positive crimps that allow you to hit the finishing rail. A purple camalot (#0.5) protects the final crux perfectly.
Well as Randy noted, the route was extremely loose before and on the first free ascent. Though I top-roped the route (without falling) the weekend before the FFA, I was quite unprepared for the experience leading the thing.
My protection consisted entirely of standard 70's era hexes and stoppers, and at the crux I must have stuffed 4 to 6 pieces in close proximity. Randy also remembered that he removed one of my best pieces by pulling it with a downward force. I suspect that had I fallen, pieces would have pulled resulting in a long fall or a even a groundfall. I came back and led the route in the mid 80's with cams and it was still scary, more due to my own loss of cajones (now that I'm past age 19) than quality of protection or difficulty.
I took a 40 foot screamer on this route from the top crux. I blew two crappy pieces. and fell from the top lie-back holds to below the little roof half way up the route. I don't know if anyone cares, but you might want to place a .5 camalot or a red alien at that part instead of a blindly placed yellow alien (just FYI).
Dihedral Rock
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